Tag: recipes

Sweet apples for New Year

(photo from flickr / s2art)

My favourite fall/winter fruit is apples, and not just because they are a main symbol of Rosh Hashanah, helping us start off the new year with a sweet dip of honey. I believe the adage that an apple a day keeps the doctor away. Although the phrase was uttered by Benjamin Franklin, it originated in 1866 in Wales – “eat an apple on going to bed and you’ll keep the doctor from earning his bread.”

Why are apples healthy? They may lower high cholesterol and blood pressure; they have fibre, which can aid digestion; they support a healthy immune system; are a diabetes-friendly fruit; and the antioxidants in apples may play a role in cancer prevention.

All that aside, they just taste great. Here are some recipes to try out, one of which features another New Year’s symbol – the pomegranate.

MOTHER’S ROSH HASHANAH APPLE CAKE

2/3 cup vegetable oil
2 cups brown sugar
2 eggs
2 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp ground cloves
2 cups applesauce (or 2 finely chopped apples)
2 tsp baking soda dissolved in 1 tsp wine
4 cups flour
2 tsp vanilla
2 cups raisins
1/2 to 1 cup finely chopped nuts

  1. Grease two cake pans. Preheat oven to 350°F.
  2. With an electric or hand mixer, cream oil and sugar.
  3. Add eggs, cinnamon and cloves.
  4. Add applesauce, dissolved baking soda and blend. Add flour, vanilla, raisins and nuts.
  5. Pour into the well-greased cake pans and bake for 45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean.

APPLE ENCHANTMENT
(This recipe was in my files from the 1970s, from Carmel wine company.)

1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup caramel amaretto
grated rind and juice of 1 orange
4 large, firm apples

  1. In a saucepan, combine sugar, amaretto, orange rind and juice. Bring to a boil.
  2. Peel, core and thickly slice apples. Place in the pan as they are sliced. Reduce heat and simmer until apples are tender and liquid has evaporated.
  3. Remove to a dish. Chill.
  4. Garnish with shredded coconut or whipped cream.

BAKED STUFFED APPLES
(This recipe by Ann Chantal Altman is from a 2001 Food & Wine cookbook.)

3 tbsp lightly toasted slivered blanched almonds
1.3 ounces of finely crumbled kosher amaretti (almond-flavoured Italian macaroons)
1/3 cup dry currants
2 tbsp brown sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tbsp softened unsalted butter or margarine
4 apples
1 cup apple juice
2 tbsp dark rum

  1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease a square baking dish.
  2. In a bowl, mix almonds with amaretti crumbs, currants, brown sugar, cinnamon and lemon zest.
  3. Remove interior core and seeds of apples within half-inch of bottom. Score apple skin lengthwise at 1.5-inch intervals and arrange in the baking dish. Spoon filling into apples. Pour apple juice and rum around the apples.
  4. Bake for 20 minutes. Cover loosely with foil and bake 45-50 minutes longer or until apples are very soft. Transfer to plates. Spoon juices on top.

QUICK AND EASY MICROWAVE APPLE COMPOTE

4 large apples
3 to 5 tbsp water or apple juice
1/4 to 1/2 tsp cinnamon
2 to 3 tsp sugar

  1. Cut apples in small pieces, discarding cores. Place in a microwave-safe dish with water or apple juice.
  2. Cover and microwave on high for three minutes. Stir and microwave for two more minutes.
  3. Add cinnamon and sugar. Cover and microwave for one to two minutes or until tender. Sprinkle some sugar on top.

APPLES BAKED IN POMEGRANATE SYRUP

4 apples, cored and cut into 16 wedges each
juice from half a pomegranate
apple juice
1/3 cup apricot preserves
1/2 tsp cinnamon
seeds from half a pomegranate

  1. Use non-stick vegetable spray on a microwavable baking dish.
  2. Place apple wedges in the dish.
  3. Squeeze juice from half a pomegranate and add apple juice to make 1/2 cup.
  4. Add preserves and cinnamon and mix well. Pour over apples and coat. Cover.
  5. Microwave on high for two minutes and stir. Continue until apples are barely tender, at least two minutes more.
  6. Remove seeds from remaining pomegranate half, discard white pith. Sprinkle over apples and serve.

Sybil Kaplan is a Jerusalem-based journalist and author. She has edited/compiled nine kosher cookbooks and is a food writer for North American Jewish publications.

Fish dishes for dinner, lunch

A fish head is one of the symbols of the Rosh Hashanah meal, so why not add a fish dish to the menu? (photo from rawpixel.com)

Soon we will celebrate Rosh Hashanah, for which a fish head is a symbol of leadership (be the head and not the tail) and fertility. This is reason enough, perhaps, to include fish on the holiday dinner or lunch menus. If so, here are a few recipes you could try.

TUNA AIOLI
(8 servings)

2 cups mayonnaise
4 large minced garlic cloves
2 tbsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp dry mustard
2 10-ounce packages frozen Italian green beans
4 7-ounce cans drained tuna
2 20-ounce cans drained sliced beets
8 sliced carrots
2 thinly sliced red or white onions

  1. In a bowl, blend mayonnaise with garlic, lemon juice and mustard. Cover and refrigerate.
  2. Cook green beans following package directions.
  3. Arrange tuna, beets, carrots and onions on a serving platter. Serve with mayonnaise-garlic sauce.

FISH AND ARTICHOKE SALAD
(6 servings)

1 pound fish of your choice
1 cup pareve chicken soup (or vegetable stock)
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 14-ounce can drained and quartered artichoke hearts
2 tomatoes, cut into eighths
1/2 cup halved black olives
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
salt and pepper to taste
a few lettuce leaves
4 chopped green onions

  1. Place fish, soup and wine in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Turn off heat and let cool.
  2. Place fish in a bowl with artichoke hearts, tomatoes and olives.
  3. In a small bowl, whisk oil, lemon juice, parsley, salt and pepper. Pour over fish and toss to mix.
  4. Cover and refrigerate overnight or at least three hours.
  5. Line a bowl with lettuce leaves. Spoon in fish mixture. Garnish with green onions.

GRILLED SALMON SALAD
(8 servings)

8 centre-cut salmon fillets
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
salt and pepper to taste
8 cups rinsed, dried and coarsely chopped arugula leaves
4 cups halved cherry tomatoes
1/2 cup diced red onion
salt and pepper to taste
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp red wine vinegar

  1. Place salmon in a shallow dish. Combine oil, lime juice, salt and pepper and pour over salmon. Marinate in refrigerator 30 minutes, turn and continue marinating 30 minutes more.
  2. Oil a grill. Grill salmon, skin side down, 8-13 minutes, until medium rare.
  3. Meanwhile, combine arugula, tomatoes, red onion, salt, pepper, olive oil and wine vinegar.
  4. Place a salmon fillet in the centre of each dinner plate. Divide the salad equally and place each portion atop a piece of fish.

Sybil Kaplan is a Jerusalem-based journalist and author. She has edited/compiled nine kosher cookbooks and is a food writer for North American Jewish publications.

Chicken with a French twist

Chicken always makes for a nice holiday meal. For a special treat, however, try out these French kosher chicken entrees.

CHICKEN DIJON
(8 servings)

1/4 cup water or vegetable oil
1 tsp garlic powder
1/2 cup Dijon mustard
1 tsp dry Italian seasoning
8 boneless skinless chicken breast halves
lemon slices or fresh herbs

  1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
  2. In a plastic bag, combine mustard, water or oil, garlic powder and Italian seasoning. Add chicken and shake to coat.
  3. Place chicken in a baking pan. Bake for 20 minutes or until done.
  4. Garnish with lemon slices and fresh herbs.

CHICKEN LEGS COQ AU VIN
(I’ve adapted slightly Chef Eric Ripert’s recipe that was in Food & Wine. It makes 8 servings.)

16 chicken drumsticks
salt and pepper
6 tbsp flour
1/4 cup canola oil
1 cup finely chopped carrots
1 cup finely chopped onions
1 cup finely chopped celery
3 cups chopped mushrooms
4 thinly sliced garlic cloves
1 cup brandy
2 tbsp tomato paste
1 bottle dry red wine
2 cups chicken stock
4 thyme sprigs

  1. Heat oil in a large pot.
  2. Season chicken with salt and pepper and dust with 1/4 cup flour. Add chicken to pot and cook over high heat five minutes. Remove to a plate.
  3. Add carrots, onions, celery, mushrooms and garlic and cook five minutes.
  4. Add brandy and cook one minute. Stir in tomato paste and two tablespoons flour. Add wine, chicken stock and thyme and bring to a boil.
  5. Return chicken to pot, cover and simmer 1.5 hours. Remove chicken.
  6. Simmer sauce until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Discard thyme. Return chicken to sauce and heat.

CHARDONNAY-BRAISED CHICKEN THIGHS
(I’ve made a few changes to cookbook author Grace Parisi’s recipe that was in Food & Wine. It makes 8 servings.)

4 tbsp unsalted margarine
4 tbsp olive oil
16 chicken thighs
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup flour
8 peeled, quartered shallots
2 pounds parsley root or parsnips, cut into 3-by-0.5-inch pieces
2 rosemary sprigs
2 cups Chardonnay or dry white wine
3 cups chicken soup

  1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Melt margarine in a large frying pan with oil.
  2. Season chicken with salt and pepper and dust with flour. Add to frying pan, skin side down and cook until brown, about six minutes. Place on a plate.
  3. Add shallots, parsley root or parsnips and rosemary and cook one minute.
  4. Add wine and cook three minutes or until reduced by half.
  5. Add chicken soup and bring to a boil.
  6. Place chicken skin side up in frying pan and place in oven. Braise 25 minutes or until cooked through.
  7. Broil chicken for three minutes. Return to stove and boil until sauce is thickened, about three minutes. Discard rosemary. Transfer to bowls and serve.

Sybil Kaplan is a Jerusalem-based journalist and author. She has edited/compiled nine kosher cookbooks and is a food writer for North American Jewish publications.

Hitting the high seas & citrus

Who among us enjoys using a 400°F oven during the summer? That would be: Nobody. Ever. For me, summer is synonymous with barbecuing, which is first cousin to steak, hamburgers, chicken and grilled veggies.

Recently introduced to tuna steaks, I’ve now gone over to the light side. On a recent trip to Victoria, good friends had us over for dinner and served one of the best meals we’ve eaten in years. While most of the component parts were healthy, some were deliciously questionable, in terms of caloric heft (see lemon mousse below). The star of the meal, by a long shot, however, was the marinated tuna steak, grilled on the barbecue. Even though it was more well done than I prefer, it was still juicy, incredibly flavourful and tender. I like my tuna steak with grill marks on the outside and pink rareness on the inside. Most good fish restaurants serve it like that. Despite the variance in preferences, our friend cooked it to perfection. As with all good things, I like to share my enjoyment with others. So, you’re welcome.

You can buy frozen tuna steaks at lots of stores. Fresh is even better, but not always available. For your culinary edification, did you know that Pacific bluefin tuna are approximately five feet long and weigh about 130 pounds? (Think: that’s bigger than me!) Apparently, the world record for the largest bluefin tuna caught was set in Nova Scotia in 1979. It weighed in at a whopping 1,496 pounds. How do you even land something like that? It’s like the Tuna That Ate New York. The tuna we had was cut into petite steaks of about five inches by three inches, and was one-inch-thick perfection.

MARINATED TUNA STEAKS
(serves 4)

4 4-ounce tuna steaks
1/4 cup orange juice
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp chopped fresh oregano
1/2 tsp ground black pepper
salt to taste

In a large non-reactive dish (does this mean it’s even-tempered?), mix together the orange juice, soy sauce, olive oil, lemon juice, parsley, garlic, oregano and pepper. Place the tuna steaks in the marinade and turn it over to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Bring to room temperature before grilling/frying. Preheat grill at high heat, or pan sear on high in a frying pan.

Lightly oil grill grate or frying pan. Cook the tuna steaks for approximately five minutes, then turn and baste with the marinade. Cook for an additional five minutes, or to desired doneness. I’ve read recipes that call for as little as a 45-second-per-side cooking time, so, use your own discretion. Discard any remaining marinade.

Serve it up with a side of guacamango salad (see below), and you’re sure to get a thank you note. Add some tri-coloured baby new potatoes and, voila, just like that, your guests/partner/pets will think you’re Julia Child!

Despite all evidence to the contrary, I can cook and not give people E. coli. I have been known to give my husband and I food poisoning from bad lamb. In my defence, it was a full moon and I was unsupervised. I’ve also been known to accidentally coat snapper in icing sugar instead of flour. Because Harvey and I were in our “courting” phase, he ate it nonetheless. I went out for takeout sushi. This is one of Harvey’s favourite stories. Mostly, I just cook stuff that it’s humanly impossible to screw up. Or, I let Harvey cook and, since he thinks that cooking is like doing a chemistry experiment, I say, knock yourself out Science Guy.

Never heard of my newly created gaucamango salad? Feast your tastebuds.

SHELLEY’S GUACAMANGO SALAD

2 large, ripe Ataulfo mangoes, diced
2 large, ripe avocados, diced
lime juice, to taste
olive oil
fresh mint, chopped roughly
blueberries (optional)

Mix all the ingredients together and tell me this isn’t the freshest-tasting summer salad you’ve ever eaten. Just try me.

As I’ve told you before, this accidental balabusta puts a premium on fast, easy meals, especially during the summer months. And, preferably, recipes that call for fewer than six ingredients, including spices. However, I made an exception for the lemon mousse, which breaches my boundaries for both patience and level of patchkerey. But, man, is it worth it! I usually never try recipes that involve separating eggs, because, well … it’s just dicey. Add in the double boiler element and we’re moving precariously into Ina Garten territory. But my friend’s rendition of this was just so darn good, I couldn’t not try it. If you’re a lemon lover, you won’t be disappointed. If you’re a sourpuss, you also won’t be disappointed.

LEMON MOUSSE DESSERT

2 lemons
1 pouch gelatin powder
4 eggs (separated)
60 grams (or 4 3/4 tbsp) sugar
1 pinch of salt
250 grams (or 1 cup) whipping cream

Wash the lemons. Zest the peel of one lemon and set it aside. Squeeze the juice of both lemons and set it aside.

Separate the eggs. Whisk sugar into the egg yolks.

In a double boiler, heat the egg yolk/sugar mixture and whisk continuously until very hot (but not boiling). If you’re like me and don’t own a double boiler, just set a bowl on top of a pot of hot water instead.

Slowly whisk in the gelatin powder, then add the lemon juice and zest. Put mixture into the fridge to cool, whisking occasionally.

Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until firm. Beat the whipping cream.

Once egg yolk/lemon mixture is cooled, gently mix in the egg whites and whipping cream until just combined. Pour into a glass serving bowl for a pretty presentation. Chill in the fridge for a few hours and then garnish with raspberries on top.

This dessert is both fluffy and light, despite all the whipping cream. And the lemon zest gives the richness a welcome bit of texture and zhuzh. This lemon mousse is a spectacular, tart addition to any meal, plus it looks über impressive. Go ahead, boldly go where no accidental balabusta has gone before. Until now. B’tayavon!

Shelley Civkin, aka the Accidental Balabusta, is a happily retired librarian and communications officer. For 17 years, she wrote a weekly book review column for the Richmond Review. She’s currently a freelance writer and volunteer.

Enjoy summer treats

Peach cobbler (photo by sk/flickr)

Tabbouleh is such a popular Lebanese salad that the first Saturday of July is known as Lebanese National Tabbouleh Day. Although there are variations, classical tabbouleh is bulgur, parsley, tomatoes, mint and onion with olive oil, lemon juice and salt. The word tabbouleh means seasoning or dip, and bulgur, the primary ingredient, is a cereal food made from whole grains of different wheat species, said to be as healthy or healthier than quinoa and rice.

Another summer treat is cobbler, as fresh strawberries, cherries, apricots, peaches, nectarines and all kinds of apples start to appear. Cobbler is said to have originated among the American colonists, but the origin of the name – dating back at least to 1859 – is uncertain. According to Wikipedia, it may be related to cobeler, meaning “wooden bowl,” or to its top looking like a cobbled stone pathway, rather than a smoothly “paved,” i.e. rolled out, pastry top.

MY FAVOURITE TABBOULEH
(4 servings)

1 cup steamed and drained broccoli
7 tbsp water
1/2 tsp chicken soup powder
2 tbsp wine vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
salt and pepper to taste
2 crushed garlic cloves
2/3 cup bulgur
5 tsp oil
4 tsp cider vinegar
chopped radishes
chopped celery
chopped green onions
chopped tomatoes
chopped red pepper

  1. In a saucepan, combine water, soup powder, wine vinegar, mustard, salt, pepper and garlic, and bring to a boil. Add bulgur, cover, and let set 15 minutes.
  2. Place broccoli in a salad bowl. Add bulgur mixture, oil, cider vinegar, radishes, celery, onions, tomatoes and red peppers and toss lightly.

TABBOULEH WITH MARINATED ARTICHOKES AND BABY SPINACH

(This recipe by Deborah Knight came from Food & Wine online. It makes 4 servings.)

4 large artichokes
1/2 tsp cumin seeds (optional)
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
2 tsp finely chopped fresh oregano
salt and pepper to taste
* * *
1 cup boiling water
1 cup coarse bulgur
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
3 tbsp lemon juice
2 finely chopped scallions
1/2 cup coarsely chopped curly leaf parsley
1 finely diced plum tomato
1 tbsp fresh chopped mint
salt and pepper to taste
10 halved cherry tomatoes
2 cups packed baby spinach leaves
1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese
2 tbsp toasted pine nuts

  1. Cut stems off artichokes, then steam the stems and artichokes. When cool, pull off leaves and trim fibrous outer skin. Scrape out the chokes and quarter the artichoke bottoms. Peel the stems and cut into 1/2-inch rounds.
  2. Toast cumin seeds in a skillet until fragrant, about 40 seconds. Let cool, and ground to a powder.
  3. Place artichoke bottoms and stems in a bowl. Add olive oil, sherry vinegar, oregano, salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature one hour or refrigerate overnight.
  4. In a large bowl, pour boiling water over bulgur. Cover and let stand 40 minutes, until bulgur is tender. Fluff with a fork. Stir in olive oil, lemon juice, scallions, parsley, plum tomato and mint. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for one hour or until chilled.
  5. In a bowl, toss cherry tomatoes with spinach, feta and pine nuts. Spoon two tablespoons of artichoke marinade over salad and toss well. Season with salt and pepper.
  6. Spoon tabbouleh onto plates and surround with artichokes. Top with spinach salad and serve.

PEACH COBBLER
(6 servings)

1 cup flour
3/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
4 tbsp unsalted pareve margarine
1 large egg
1/4 cup non-dairy milk
5 cups pitted and sliced peaches
4 tsp cornstarch
1/4 tsp cinnamon
non-dairy vanilla ice cream

  1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Grease a shallow baking dish.
  2. In bowl, mix flour, two tablespoons sugar and baking powder. Cut in margarine until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
  3. Beat together egg and non-dairy milk. Add to flour mixture until dry ingredients are moistened and a dough forms.
  4. Put peaches, remaining sugar, cornstarch and cinnamon in a saucepan. Cook until peaches are tender and syrup is clear, thick and boiling (five to seven minutes).
  5. Pour peach mixture into baking dish. Drop dough by heaping tablespoons in six portions over peach mixture. Bake for 20 minutes. Serve with pareve vanilla ice cream.

PAREVE REVERSE FRUIT COBBLER

1/4 cup plus 2 tbsp canola oil
1 cup non-dairy creamer
1 cup flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 cup sugar
1/4 tsp cinnamon
4 cups of fruit (strawberries, cherries, apples, peach, plums, nectarines and/or blueberries)
pareve whipping cream

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a round glass pie plate.
  2. Pour oil into the glass dish. Add non-dairy creamer, flour, baking powder, sugar and cinnamon. Stir until blended.
  3. Add fruit.
  4. Bake for 25 minutes. Serve warm with pareve whipped cream on top.

Sybil Kaplan is a journalist, author, editor/compiler of nine kosher cookbooks. She is a food writer for North American Jewish publications, and leads English-language Shuk Walks in Machane Yehuda.

Baked treats for Purim

Maureen Abood’s verion of ma’amoul. (photo from maureenabood.com)

There are many different Purim foods around the world. In an article from several years ago on aish.com, Dr. Yvette Alt Miller gives recipes for a dozen lesser-known treats. Among them are kreplach, which she describes as a “hidden” food in that the filling is covered up by dough; therefore, it’s appropriate for Purim because of all the hidden aspects in the Purim story.

Other baked treats Miller suggests are French palmiers, to evoke the ears of Haman; Russian kulich, a long, sweet challah loaf, resembling ropes like those Haman wanted to use to hang Mordechai and on which he was hanged; Moroccan Purim bread, boyoja ungola di Purim, using hard-boiled eggs to represent Haman’s eyes; the Bulgarian pasta dish caveos di Aman (Haman’s hair); the Israeli orecchi di Aman (Haman’s twisted ears) and Persian nanbrangl (Haman’s fleas). For all the recipes, visit aish.com/purim_foods_around_the_world.

Here are three other recipes to try. Jews from Syria, Lebanon and Egypt make ma’amoul (which means filled) for Purim – the filling can be nuts (including, but not usually, almonds) or dried fruits, like dates or figs. I’ve also made poppy seed pound cake for the holiday, and my friend (cookbook author) Joan Nathan’s recipe for figs stuffed with walnuts.

MA’AMOUL
(makes 36 cookies)

filling:
1 cup finely chopped nuts (pistachio or walnuts)
1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp orange-blossom water
1 tsp water

dough:
3 cups white flour
1 cup unsalted butter or margarine, cut in pieces
2 tbsp water
1 tbsp orange-blossom water
confectioners’ sugar

  1. Preheat oven to 400°F.
  2. In a bowl, place flour. Cut in butter or margarine until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Sprinkle orange-blossom water over dough. Stir and knead about three minutes.
  3. Form into 36 balls with a scant tablespoon for each ball. Hold each ball in your hand, make an indentation in the middle and work dough out to form a small cup about a quarter-inch thick.
  4. Combine nuts, sugar, orange blossom water and water for filling. Fill each ball with one teaspoon filling. Pinch dough, sealing in filling and molding the top to resemble a gumdrop. Using the tines of a fork, decorate the cookies.
  5. Place cookies one inch apart on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake 20 to 22 minutes until light brown around bottom edges and pointed tops.
  6. Before serving, cool and then sprinkle confectioners’ sugar on top.

POPPY SEED POUND CAKE

1/3 cup poppy seeds
1 cup milk
1 cup margarine
1 cup sugar
4 eggs, separated
1 tsp vanilla
1/2 tsp almond extract
2 1/2 cups flour
1 tsp baking soda
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 cup sugar
1 tbsp cinnamon

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a tube pan.
  2. In a bowl, mix poppy seeds with milk and let sit five minutes.
  3. In a larger bowl, cream margarine, 3/4 cup sugar, egg yolks, vanilla and almond extract.
  4. In another bowl, combine flour, baking soda and baking powder. Add alternately to creamed mixture with poppy seeds and milk.
  5. In another bowl, beat egg whites then add 1/4 cup sugar. Carefully fold in to batter.
  6. Combine sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl.
  7. Pour half the batter into the greased tube pan, sprinkle with half the cinnamon sugar then pour in the rest of batter and top with the remainder of the cinnamon sugar. Bake for 55 to 60 minutes.

FIGS STUFFED WITH WALNUTS
(This recipe comes from Joan Nathan’s Jewish Holiday Kitchen. It makes 6 servings.)

12 dried figs
12 walnut halves
grated coconut (optional)

Open the centre of each fig and place a walnut half inside, then roll the stuffed fig in grated coconut, if using. Place on a dish with other fruit and serve.

Sybil Kaplan is a journalist, author, editor/compiler of nine kosher cookbooks (working on a 10th) and a food writer living in Jerusalem. She leads English-language Shuk Walks in Machane Yehuda and writes restaurant features for janglo.net.

Beautiful Persian cookbook

While my Barbari bread (above) looked nothing like the photo from the book (below), as my dough was too wet to allow for the requisite creation of vertical ridges, it tasted really good nonetheless. (photo by Cynthia Ramsay)

I was very excited to try out Persian Delicacies: Jewish Foods for Special Occasions by Angela Cohan. Living on the North Shore, I have met several people whose heritage is Iranian, though not Jewish, and I’ve eaten Persian food, but never made it. The idea that I could make my own “delicacies” was enticing.

Cohan is a Los Angeles-based writer and editor, so it’s no wonder that her cookbook reads well and looks fabulous. The layout is pretty and logical. The colour photos are beautiful. This is a great gift for a seasoned cook, or a cook that’s willing to have a few misadventures and so-so meals before they get the hang of things.

photo - Barbara bread as it’s supposed to look
Barbara bread as it’s supposed to look. (photo from Persian Delicacies)

In the preface, Cohan, who moved to the United States with her family in 1979, writes, “I was inspired to compile the specialty recipes of my mother, my late grandmothers, and other family members and friends in this cookbook. This book is as much theirs as it is mine. It is a tribute to my heritage as a Persian woman as well as an evolution of recipes since living and cooking in the United States for the past three decades.”

I remember watching my grandmother cooking. She seemed to randomly toss in this, shake in that. It appeared to the uneducated eye that measurements were not measured at all. I get the feeling that this is somewhat the case with this cookbook. Guesstimates in many cases rather than meticulously precise cups, teaspoons, etc. And the assumption that one knows how long to knead dough, for example.

image - Persian Delicacies book coverThe recipes I tried – dolmeh (stuffed peppers), Barbari bread and sesame brittle – seemed easy enough. I chose them because I was on a deadline and had all the ingredients at hand. I will continue to explore this cookbook, as my first foray was promising but not that successful, in part because, instead of adapting the measures, I decided to follow the instructions come what may. So, even though I knew that my pepper stuffing was too bland, my dough was too sticky and my brittle too bendy, I made them as per the recipes. Everything was edible but nothing was delicious. Next time, I will use, respectively, another pinch of salt or another clove of garlic, more flour (or less water) and less honey. I can’t wait to try my hand at making kuku seeb zamini(potato frittata), tahdig (crispy rice), turmeric chicken, lavash bread and more.

Each recipe in Persian Delicacies comes with a brief description, either of what it is, from where or whom it came, and other useful tidbits. At the end of the book, there is some information on special occasions, with the examples of Norouz, the start of the Persian New Year, and Shabbat, and traditions associated with them, in particular as they relate to foods. A glossary of many of the ingredients and their health benefits is an interesting component.

DOLMEH
(serves 3)

3 or 4 bell peppers
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup diced yellow onion
1/2 cup scallions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped or minced
1 cup quinoa, cooked
1/2 cup fresh dill, finely chopped
1/2 cup fresh tarragon or parsley, finely chopped
1 tsp ground cinnamon (optional)
salt and pepper to taste

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
  2. Cut the top of the bell peppers and remove the seeds and veins.
  3. Heat the oil in a skillet or a saucepan. Add the onions, scallions, and garlic and cook until soft, about four minutes.
  4. Add the quinoa, dill and tarragon and season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat.
  5. Spoon the quinoa mixture into the peppers. Place the stuffed peppers on a baking tray or baking dish and bake for 45 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Top with chopped parsley and cinnamon (optional).

BARBARI BREAD
(serves 4)

1 1/2 cups warm water
1/2 tsp active dry yeast
3 cups all-purpose flour plus 1 tbsp additional flour
1 tsp salt
3 tbsp water
1/4 cup sesame seeds

  1. Add the yeast to the warm water, stir, and set aside.
  2. In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. Add the yeast mixture. Knead the dough on a flat surface.
  3. Place the dough in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let it rise for an hour.
  4. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
  5. In a small saucepan, stir one tablespoon flour and three tablespoons water over a medium-low heat.
  6. Uncover the risen dough, cut into four pieces, and roll out in an oval shape using a rolling pin.
  7. Place the dough on a cookie sheet. Using your finger or a small knife, create vertical ridges on the dough. Brush with the flour and water mixture. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.
  8. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes.

Salmon for the holiday

One of the symbols of Rosh Hashanah is the fish head – “God will make you the head, not the tail” is the blessing. Fish is often served at one of the holiday meals and here are a few salmon recipes that would be nice to serve for lunch or brunch.

HOT DOG BUN SALMON SANDWICHES
(This recipe is adapted from Food & Wine. It makes 8 servings.)

1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 finely chopped celery ribs with leaves
1 tbsp chopped chives
2 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
salt and pepper to taste
4 loose cups flaked roasted salmon
8 hot dog buns
melted unsalted butter
potato chips

  1. In a bowl, combine yogurt with celery, chives, parsley and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. Fold in salmon.
  2. Heat a griddle. Brush the cut sides of the buns with butter and toast.
  3. Fill the buns with salmon salad. Top with potato chips.

SALMON BURGERS
(This recipe comes from Rick Moonen of RM Seafood in Las Vegas with my changes. It makes 6 servings.)

5 coarsely chopped scallions, white and green parts only
3/4 cup coarsely chopped red pepper
3/4 cup coarsely chopped green pepper
1 1/2 pounds skinless, centre-cut salmon, cut into 1-inch cubes and frozen for 30 minutes
1/2 cup dry breadcrumbs
salt and pepper to taste
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1/4 cup olive oil
6 split and toasted brioche buns
harissa-spiced mayonnaise (optional)
cucumber relish, lettuce and tomato slices, for serving

  1. Pulse scallions and peppers in a food processor until finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl. Pulse salmon until finely chopped and with some bigger chunks. Transfer to bowl.
  2. Fold in breadcrumbs, salt and pepper and one-third cup harissa mayonnaise (to make: add two tablespoons of the North African paste to two-thirds cup mayonnaise). Oil hands and shape into six patties. Transfer to a lightly oiled plate and refrigerate 30 minutes.
  3. Light a grill. Melt one tablespoon butter and two tablespoons olive oil in a frying pan. Add three burgers, cook on both sides four to five minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add another one tablespoon butter and two tablespoons olive oil to pan and fry remaining burgers.
  4. Spread harissa mayonnaise on buns. Top with burgers, relish, lettuce and tomato slices.

SMOKED SALMON AND ONION FRITTATA MUFFINS
(This recipe comes from Foods You Want for the Life You Crave by Nealy Fischer. It makes 4 to 5 servings.)

1 1/2 tsp olive oil
1 tbsp unsalted butter
1/2 small finely chopped onion
1 1/2 ounces lox or smoked salmon
4 large beaten eggs
1/4 cup chopped chives

  1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Grease six-cup muffin pan with olive oil or vegetable spray.
  2. Heat olive oil and butter in a frying pan. Add onion and cook eight minutes.
  3. Move onions to one side of frying pan, fry smoked salmon one minute. Break into small pieces.
  4. Transfer onion and salmon to a bowl and allow to cool.
  5. Add eggs, chives, salt and pepper to bowl and combine. Pour into muffin cups. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until eggs are set in the centre. Let cool one minute then remove from pan.

Sybil Kaplan is a journalist, editor of nine kosher cookbooks (working on a 10th) and a food writer living in Jerusalem. She has written the kosher restaurant features for janglo.net since 2014 and leads weekly English-language Shuk Walks in Machane Yehuda.

Try new-ish dish in new year

Quinoa (keen-wah) is a plant whose seed is eaten like a grain, like wheat, originally from the Andean region of South America. However, it is not a true grain. Quinoa contains higher amounts of protein compared to true grains, and it does not contain any gluten.

Eating quinoa might make people feel fuller than wheat or rice and it might also decrease post-meal levels of blood fats called triglycerides compared to eating bread. Here are some recipes you might like to try in the new year, particularly if you are gluten-free or celiac.

BASIC QUINOA
(makes 3 cups)

2 cups water
1 cup quinoa

  1. Place quinoa and water in a saucepan. When all the grains turn white, bring to a boil.
  2. Cover and cook until all the water is absorbed (about 15 minutes).

QUINOA TABBOULEH
(This recipe is from Rancho la Puerta in Tecate, Mex. It makes 4 servings.)

2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp chopped Italian parsley
1 minced garlic clove
salt and pepper to taste
1 cup water
1/2 cup rinsed quinoa
1/2 cup chopped cucumber
1/2 cup chopped tomatoes
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
1/2 cup chopped parsley
8 lettuce leaves

  1. Whisk oil, lemon juice and parsley in a bowl with garlic, salt and pepper.
  2. In a saucepan, bring one cup water to boil. Add quinoa, cover, reduce heat and cook until water is absorbed, about 13 minutes. Transfer to bowl and cool.
  3. Add cucumber, tomato, mint and a half cup of parsley. Pour dressing on and toss to coat.
  4. To serve, arrange two lettuce leaves on each of four plates. Spoon quinoa tabbouleh on top and serve.

LEMONY QUINOA SALAD
(This recipe is from California Chef Jeremy Fox from a Food & Wine article on America’s best vegetarian cooking. It makes 4 servings.)

8 large red radishes
1 small black radish
1 peeled medium carrot
1 cored medium fennel bulb
1 cup quinoa
2 1/2 cups water
finely grated zest of 2 lemons
juice of 1 lemon
2 tbsp vegetable oil
salt and pepper to taste

  1. Using a mandolin grater, thinly slice radishes, carrot and fennel and transfer to a bowl of ice water. Refrigerate about one hour, until crisp.
  2. In a saucepan, bring quinoa and water to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat until water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Let cool.
  3. Drain and dry vegetables. Combine lemon zest and lemon juice with oil in a bowl. Add quinoa and toss. Season with salt and pepper.
  4. To serve, place quinoa in salad bowls and top with vegetables.

CRISPY QUINOA SLIDERS
(This recipe is from Food & Wine by Chef Kay Chun. It makes 12 sliders.)

2/3 cup quinoa
2/3 cup water
2 1-inch slices whole wheat bread, crusts removed, bread cubed
2 large eggs
1 cup coarsely grated zucchini
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup chopped chives
3 minced garlic cloves
salt and pepper to taste
4 tbsp vegetable oil
mini buns, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, pickles

  1. In a saucepan, cook the quinoa in boiling water until just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and spread onto a baking sheet to cool.
  2. Pulse bread in a food processor until coarse crumbs (about one cup).
  3. Whisk eggs in a bowl. Squeeze liquid from zucchini and add to eggs. Stir in cheese, chives, garlic, salt and pepper. Add quinoa and breadcrumbs. Let stand 10 minutes.
  4. Scoop 12 mounds of mixture to form half-inch-thick patties. Heat one tablespoon oil in a frying pan. Add six patties and cook about three minutes, until golden on the bottom and crisp. Re-oil the pan and fry the remaining six patties for three minutes.
  5. Serve in mini buns with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and pickles.

Sybil Kaplan is a journalist, editor of nine kosher cookbooks (working on a 10th) and a food writer living in Jerusalem. She has written the kosher restaurant features for janglo.net since 2014 and leads weekly English-language Shuk Walks in Machane Yehuda.