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Category: Travel

A warm Penzance welcome

A warm Penzance welcome

The writer and her husband, Ted Ramsay, hiking along a coastal path near St. Ives. (photo by Karen Ginsberg)

photo - Porthcurno Beach, near Penzance
Porthcurno Beach, near Penzance. (photo by Karen Ginsberg)

A trip this spring to Cornwall in southwest England gave my husband and me the opportunity to experience the unique treasures in this part of the world. In addition to beautiful landscapes and breathtaking coastal hikes, we visited the Eden Project, Minack Theatre, Land’s End and the towns of St. Ives, St. Just and Mousehole. It was in Penzance, however, that we enjoyed the warmest of welcomes from representatives of the Council of Cornish Jews, otherwise known as Kehillat Kernow, when we stopped for a day to visit.

We were greeted by Kehillat Kernow chair Harvey Kurzfield, public relations chair Jeremy Jacobson, and Patricia and Leslie Lipert. Patricia serves both as a lay leader for the community, as well as editor of the community’s newsletter and website. Her husband Leslie is the Kehillat treasurer and, for the past several years, he has spearheaded a drive to raise the monies needed for repairs at two Jewish cemeteries, in Penzance and in Falmouth, which is about 50 kilometres away. The name Kehillat Kernow represents both their Jewish and Cornish roots, kehila meaning community in Hebrew, and Kernow, in Cornish, meaning Cornish.

photo - The writer’s husband, Ted Ramsay, centre, with Kehillat Kernow members, left to right, Jeremy Jacobson, Harvey Kurzfield, and Patricia and Leslie Lipert
The writer’s husband, Ted Ramsay, centre, with Kehillat Kernow members, left to right, Jeremy Jacobson, Harvey Kurzfield, and Patricia and Leslie Lipert. (photo by Karen Ginsberg)

Keith Pearce, a Kehillat member, co-edited a collection of essays called The Lost Jews of Cornwall, which details the history of Cornish Jews. He has also written The Jews of Cornwall: History, Tradition and Settlement to 1913, which paints an intriguing picture of the first Jews who lived in the Penzance and Falmouth areas of the county since the 1740s and documents how much of their legacy remains. Falmouth, by the way, derives from the nearby River Fal and is an English translation of the Cornish Avber Fal.

The first Jews to settle in the Penzance/Falmouth area were from Bavaria, Bohemia and the Netherlands. They came, in part, to supply the tin mining industry, which was one of the major economic activities in the area at the time. Some were jewellers and clockmakers; they chose Cornwall because they felt it would be a safe haven for Jews.

Alexander Moses, a silversmith, was the first Jew known to settle in Falmouth, with his wife Phoebe in 1740. He became known as Zender Falmouth: Zender was a common diminutive among Jews, as was taking as a surname the name of their hometown. Surnames were not commonly used then.

Looking to the future, Zender built a building in 1766 along the seafront in Falmouth to be used as a synagogue when more Jews settled there. One of the stories told about him is that he had other peddlers in his employ whom he paid if they would come to Sabbath services and ensure a minyan. Later, another synagogue was built in Penzance. Despite Zender’s forward-looking vision, in time and with the coming of the industrial revolution, many people, including Jews who had settled in the area, moved from the rural and small-town settings to the cities. By 1913, the synagogue in Penzance was closed. Today, the building that housed that synagogue is a pub.

Another interesting aspect of the history of the Jews in Cornwall concerns the arrival in Penzance in the 18th century of the Hart family. The most famous member, Asher Laemle ben Eleazar, known later as Lemon Hart, was a distiller and a spirits merchant. Hart earned a national reputation as one of the first suppliers to the Royal Navy after it began giving each seaman a daily ration of blended rum.

Harvey told us that, when he first moved to Cornwall from London in 1971, there was no formal organizational life for Jews and there had not been for quite a long time. He recalled that he slowly began to make the acquaintance of other Jews with whom he and his family could share simchot but that the distances between the small towns in the county and the lack of a formal structure worked against people easily coming together.

That changed when, by happenchance, in 1996, the Cornwall county council appointed David Hampshire as the religious educator, a sort of advisor on all aspects of the religious studies that were part of the required curriculum among county schools. Hampshire was a former monk who had converted from Christianity to Judaism. In the course of his work, he encountered other Jewish families, and a “critical mass” of Jews who knew each other and were interested in meeting together to celebrate Judaism developed.

Kehillat Kernow’s beginnings were modest. There were 40 separate households within the Kehillat and they held Shabbat services in the Baptist church in the small town of Truro.

Today’s Jewish Council of Cornwall now enjoys the use of two Torah scrolls. One of the scrolls is on loan from a synagogue in Exeter; the second was acquired from the Royal Institution of Cornwall after years of negotiation. This latter Torah scroll is thought to be more than 350 years old and to have come from Bohemia in the early 18th century when the first settlers came to Falmouth. It has been refurbished for its use by this special community of Jews.

Kehillat Kernow has ongoing relationships with both the Movement for Reform Judaism and the United Synagogue (Modern Orthodox), both of which have departments that deal with smaller Jewish communities in England. Its current membership is just shy of 60 family units, totaling about 105 individuals. There are six to seven children enrolled in cheder and, last year, the community celebrated three b’nai mitzvot.

Services – which are held every two weeks – are lay led in a local school building and rotate among two women and three men as leaders. Services are held for all holidays and festivals; there are Hebrew classes, as well as classes in Shabbat cooking and in storytelling; and occasionally there are musical concerts. Conversions are done with local leaders but then formally carried out by a Reform bet din (religious court) in London. Lay leadership officiates at weddings and funerals.

While there is an abundance of fresh fish in local markets, kosher meat is available only from London or Manchester. The community newsletter, published monthly, and the Kehillat’s website are important communications tools to keep everyone up to date. After spending an afternoon with Pat and her colleagues, her description of this Jewish community rings very true: “What has evolved is like an extended family – we look after each other – we take care when we hear about someone needing something.”

Kehillat Kernow is an active participant in an interfaith forum in Cornwall. This forum has been working towards a dor kemmyn, Cornish for interfaith community building. In time, the building would be available for use by the Kehillat, as well as the other religious groups in the forum.

Kehillat Kernow is clearly held in high regard by other religious communities in the area. This is exemplified by the invitations they have received recently from various churches to be part of the churches’ international Holocaust remembrance services. Yet another interfaith group, Friends of Israel, recently invited Kehillat representatives to attend a film about the aftermath of the Shoah and the plight of Jews who were expelled from their home countries with the emergence of the state of Israel, and to say Kaddish within their midst at Holocaust remembrance services.

photo - The entrance to Penzance Cemetery, the restoration of which is being funded jointly by the Heritage Lottery Fund, and organizations and individuals in the Jewish community
The entrance to Penzance Cemetery, the restoration of which is being funded jointly by the Heritage Lottery Fund, and organizations and individuals in the Jewish community. (photo by Karen Ginsberg)

One of the Cornwall Jewish community’s most ambitious projects is the restoration of the cemeteries in Penzance and Falmouth. The Penzance Cemetery, which dates to the 1700s, is thought to be the finest example of the 25 Georgian Jewish cemeteries that exist outside of London. The work on it is being funded jointly by money raised from the Heritage Lottery Fund, and organizations and individuals in the Jewish community, including descendants of those buried in the graveyard. The Penzance Cemetery has a rare grave – that of an infant buried on a Shabbat because of a cholera epidemic.

photo - Ted Ramsay in Penzance Cemetery.
Ted Ramsay in Penzance Cemetery. (photo by Karen Ginsberg)

In response to a question about what the community’s aspirations are for itself, Harvey’s response tells you everything a traveler might want to know about how you would be greeted, should you find your way to Cornwall. He said, “Continue as we are, attract more people to the Kehillat and its activities, be able to offer more Jewish educational opportunities and, especially, for more Jews from other parts of the world to make a point of visiting with us when they pass through Cornwall.”

Should your travels take you to Cornwall, you are invited to contact Harvey Kurzfield ([email protected]), Pat and Leslie Lipert ([email protected]) and Jeremy Jacobson ([email protected]) and to view the schedule of Kehillat Kernow’s activities in their newsletter at kehillatkernow.com.

Karen Ginsberg is an Ottawa-based Jewish travel writer.

Format ImagePosted on September 11, 2015September 9, 2015Author Karen GinsbergCategories TravelTags Cornwall, Kehillat Kernow, Penzance
Enjoy sunsets, blintzes, more

Enjoy sunsets, blintzes, more

Some of the most stunning sunsets can be seen right from the Pierside Restaurant while eating dinner. (photo by Baila Lazarus)

As a realtor with more than two decades of experience, Joel Korn knows the golden rule that location is everything. That’s one of the reasons he and his wife have started frequenting a new getaway just south of the border.

Semiahmoo Resort, located across Semiahmoo Bay from White Rock, is just an hour’s drive from downtown Vancouver (with a Nexus pass), making it the closest resort of its kind outside of the Vancouver area.

“I always knew the resort was there,” said Korn. “Mostly I knew about the golf course.” It’s so close (approximately 55 kilometres), he said, they can make it a day trip. Even the hotel manager lives in downtown Vancouver.

photo - Smoked salmon is on the menu of the resorts scrumptious buffet breakfast
Smoked salmon is on the menu of the resorts scrumptious buffet breakfast. (photo by Baila Lazarus)

Located on a spit of land a short tugboat ride away from Blaine, Wash., the 212-room resort features a pool, full-service spa and diverse restaurants.

The sheer area it covers is impressive. It’s so large, it has a racquetball court (with plans for a second), tennis court, and full-size exercise centre and yoga room that rivals any fitness club. Enormous outdoor spaces on the beach and the restaurant patio serve as great meeting spaces, especially for events like weddings. Just a short drive away are two acclaimed public golf courses: Semiahmoo Golf and Country Club, and Loomis Trail Golf Club.

“We love the spa,” said Korn, who raves about the hot rock massage. “It’s great just to go down and stay all day in the spa. We love the saltwater whirlpool and the steam rooms.”

Being on a peninsula means a large portion of the building (one quarter of the rooms), including the main restaurant and sports bar, have stunning water views. (Squint your eyes a bit and you can see the white rock on the Canadian side of the border.) And, because of the spaciousness, even when many of the rooms are taken, there’s never a crowded feeling.

The mostly flat surrounding land, bordered by water, makes for great family activities like biking, kayaking, clamming, sand sculpting, kite flying, picnicking or just strolling lazily through the mud flats when the tide is out. The hotel has bikes, croquet or badminton sets you can rent for the day. For the indoor-inclined, there are free fitness and yoga classes daily.

Visitors with pets can book ground-floor rooms that exit directly onto the beach.

Weekends in the summer, guests can participate in outdoor barbecues and marshmallow roasts and take a tugboat called the Plover, which has been running since 1944, across to Blaine for pizza, ice cream, Thai or Mexican food.

Birdwatchers will have an especially enjoyable time as the region’s tide pools and waterways attract thousands of geese, ducks, gulls, loons and shorebirds. The area has made the Audubon Society’s list as one of Washington State’s top birding destinations, and Drayton Harbor attracts endangered species such as bald eagles and peregrine falcons.

photo - Patio dining at sunset just outside Packers sports bar
Patio dining at sunset just outside Packers sports bar. (photo by Baila Lazarus)

For those looking to stimulate their palates, the kitchen of French-born culinary director Chef Eric Truglas creates heavenly plates, such as melt-in-your mouth branzino (European sea bass), pecorino cream risotto, minted pea soup and watermelon salad. For breakfast, the orange-zest blintzes and smoked salmon are to die for. The restaurant also boasts an extensive wine list. For more casual dining, Packers sports bar is right on the water with patio seating. Both eateries are perfect spots to catch a sunset.

Semiahmoo Resort has gone through growing pains in the last decade. It was owned for 25 years by the Upper Skagit Indian Tribe, which closed it at the end of 2012, due to low occupancy, blamed partially on the 2008 recession. It was then bought by Seattle-based Wright Hotels in mid-2013 and remained closed as it underwent a $10 million facelift. The new owners gave it a major renewal with interior upgrades that included new furniture and carpeting, improvements to the restaurants, spa and fitness facility and a completely new image.

The changes have been noticed – the hotel was declared the Northwest’s best resort in the Best of 2014 Readers’ Choice Award in Seattle Magazine.

And, if all this isn’t enough to put the resort on your bucket list, it is so close to Canada that Rogers customers never lose their wifi connection.

Baila Lazarus is a freelance writer and media trainer in Vancouver. Her consulting work can be seen at phase2coaching.com.

Format ImagePosted on September 11, 2015September 9, 2015Author Baila LazarusCategories TravelTags Joel Korn, Semiahmoo Resort
Bulgaria: more than cheese

Bulgaria: more than cheese

The roof of Sofia’s synagogue. (photo by Deborah Rubin Fields)

Until recently, if someone had asked me what I knew about Bulgaria, I would have said, “Isn’t that the name of a cheese?” Now having visited Bulgaria, I realize how limited was my perspective.

Bulgaria’s colorful Jewish history dates back to antiquity. According to Elko Hazan’s comprehensive 2012 book The Concise Illustrated Encyclopedia of Jewish Communities and their Synagogues in Bulgaria, over the centuries Jews had a presence in some 40 Bulgarian cities and towns.

scan - Part of an ancient mosaic synagogue floor found in Plovdiv. This photo is from The Concise Illustrated Encyclopedia of Jewish Communities and Their Synagogues in Bulgaria (Kamea Design, 2012).
Part of an ancient mosaic synagogue floor found in Plovdiv. (photo from The Concise Illustrated Encyclopedia of Jewish Communities and Their Synagogues in Bulgaria (Kamea Design, 2012)).

For example, near Plovdiv’s Maria Luiza Boulevard, archeologists uncovered a third-century CE synagogue. Its proximity to ancient Philippopolis’ Roman forum suggests that wealthy Jews in good standing with the Romans built the structure. The accomplishment of these well-placed Jews is all the more remarkable when you consider that Philippopolis had an estimated population of 100,000. Archeologists discovered two mosaic synagogue floors, one over another. The stunning mosaic featured both the Four Species (lulav, etrog, myrtle, willow) and a menorah. The second floor may have had geometric patterns. That more than one floor was found probably indicates the synagogue was renovated in the fifth century and destroyed in the sixth century. (See The Jewish-Greek Tradition in Antiquity and the Byzantine Empire, edited by James K. Aitken.)

Greek inscriptions commended the synagogue’s donors or founders. The east and west mosaic panel read: “‘From the gifts of Providence … Cosmianus, also called Joseph, executed the decoration (of the building). Blessing to all!” The central panel read: “From the gifts of Providence … El … also called Isaac made decoration of 120 feet (mosaic).” The adoption of a Roman-sounding second name attests to adaptation by Jews to the Greek and Roman culture. (See Negotiating Diaspora: Jewish Strategies in the Roman Empire, edited by John M.G. Barclay.) Ironically, as the synagogue remains are in storage, the only way to get a sense of how grand the floor was is to visit the impressive new museum of the (fifth-century) Small Basilica.

The ceiling of Plovdiv’s Zion Synagogue
The ceiling of Plovdiv’s Zion Synagogue. (photo by Deborah Rubin Fields)

But Plovdiv’s charming Zion Synagogue (13 Tsar Kaloyan St.) is still up and functioning (one of two still active in Bulgaria). It was first built in 1886-1887. In 2003, the extensive five-year renovation of the starry-sky ceiling and the colorful geometric-paneled walls was completed. The building is only open for Kabbalat Shabbat prayers, so visitors should contact Eva Mezan (at +359-87-944-8675) to verify hours.

Although there is seating for 250 worshippers, some 20 local men and women attend this service. The second floor ezrat nashim (women’s section) is not used. Instead, an invisible mechitza (divider) has men sitting on one side of the aisle, women on the other. The congregation’s lay cantor leads services from the raised bima adjacent to the aron ha-kodesh (Torah ark). The congregation uses a Bulgarian-Hebrew siddur. Vocal congregants despair over the sad state of their community, with its high rate of intermarriage.

photo - The Jewish cemetery in Plovdiv
The Jewish cemetery in Plovdiv. (photo by Deborah Rubin Fields)

Plovdiv’s small Jewish community likewise has difficulty managing the graves in the Jewish section of the municipal cemetery (73 Knyaginya Maria Louisa Blvd.). While there is upkeep of “new” graves, headstones laid as recently as 1923 are somewhat neglected. Near the corner of the Sixth of September and Russki boulevards, Plovdiv’s Jews, however, do maintain a Bulgarian/Hebrew/English thanksgiving monument to the Bulgarian people for their help during the Second World War.

Sofia’s opulent 1,170-seat, 100-year-old Central Synagogue (16 Ekzarh Joseph St.) is also struggling, with barely enough people to hold daily morning prayers. The small on-site Jewish nursery school and the tiny, underdeveloped Jewish museum strikingly contrast with the enormous octagonal-shaped synagogue sanctuary. (Note: museum hours are limited, and not necessarily in accordance with posted times.)

photo - The Jewish community’s Bulgarian/Hebrew/English monument to the Bulgarian people for their help during the Second World War
The Jewish community’s Bulgarian/Hebrew/English monument to the Bulgarian people for their help during the Second World War. (photo by Deborah Rubin Fields)

Within walking distance of the synagogue, visitors may see (upon receiving special written permission from Dr. Lyudmil Vagalinski, [email protected]) another example of Bulgaria’s ancient Jewish history in the National Institute of Archeology with Museum’s (2 Saborna St.) lapidarium. A Latin marble pedestal from Oescus – a first- to fifth-century CE Roman town near the Danube – mentions the lay synagogue head Archisinagogus, according to Hazan.

Sofia’s 131-year-old Doctors’ Garden (located close to the National Library and Sofia University) memorializes the 531 fallen medics of the Russo-Turkish War (1877-1878), most of whom died in battles at Pleven, Plovdiv, Mechka or Shipka. A good number of these Russian medical personnel were Jewish, a credit to the reforms established by Russian Emperor Alexander II.

A few blocks away is the street named after biochemist Asen Zlaratov. The street plaque mentions he helped to set up the Committee for the Protection of Jews. Even beforehand, Zlaratov published a newspaper article critical of Germany’s book burning.

photo - Sofia’s Doctors’ Garden memorializes the 531 fallen medics of the Russo-Turkish War
Sofia’s Doctors’ Garden memorializes the 531 fallen medics of the Russo-Turkish War. (photo by Deborah Rubin Fields)

More than 51,000 Jewish Bulgarians (most of the community) moved to Israel in the mid- to late-1940s. Between 1967 and 1990, Communist Bulgaria had no diplomatic relations with Israel. Today, estimates are that 5,000 Jews live in Bulgaria. Chabad Rabbi Yosef Salamon and Rabbi Yossi Halprin and their spouses supervise Jewish educational, social and religious functions for the small remaining Bulgarian Jewish population. According to the Hebrew language Chabad Bulgaria website, Bulgaria has more than 15 organized Jewish community centres or Shalom organization representation. In Sofia, Chabad runs King David, a kosher restaurant offering take-outs and hotel deliveries.

photo - The interior of Sofia’s synagogue
The interior of Sofia’s synagogue. (photo by Deborah Rubin Fields)

Over the centuries, Bulgarian Jews have influenced both their own community and the larger non-Jewish community. Here are some of the “big names”:

  • For his second wife, Tsar Ivan Alexander married the formerly Jewish Sarah (born in Tarnovgrad in the early 1300s). As the Empress Theodora, she was an ardent supporter of Eastern Orthodox Christianity. She provided for many churches. Unfortunately, her religious zeal may have motivated her to set up a church council against her former coreligionists.
  • Rabbi Joseph Caro (1488-1575), author of the Shulchan Aruch, considered the standard legal code in Judaism, lived in Nikopol for 13 years before eventually settling in Safed. Nikopol has a monument dedicated to Caro, as well as a permanent exhibit in its city museum, notes Hazan in his encyclopedia.
  • Nikopol-born Eva Frank and her father Jacob Frank tried to pass themselves off as messiahs in the late 1700s.
  • Modernist painter Jules Pascin (1885-1930) was the son of a Bulgarian Sephardi father. Ernest Hemingway recounts his relation with the sociable, but depression-driven, painter in A Moveable Feast.
  • Nobel Prize-winning writer Elias Canetti (1905-1994) was a Bulgarian-born Sephardi Jew. In his book The Tongue Set Free, Canetti describes his early Jewish home life in pre-First World War Bulgaria. In his Ruse birthplace, there is a square named after him, and the Technical Institute has a commemorative plaque.
  • Andrei Luka-nov was one of the few communist Jews to hold a central position of power. He served as Bulgaria’s prime minister from February 1990 to December 1990, resigning when the country’s economy went into a tailspin. He was the son of another Bulgarian communist, Carlo Lukanov, a Russian Jew who was Bulgaria’s foreign minister from the late 1950s to the beginning of the 1960s. In 1992, he was held in custody for allegedly taking money from public coffers. No charges were filed against him. He went on to head up the Russian-Bulgarian gas company Topenergy. Mysteriously, he left the company shortly before his Oct. 2, 1996, assassination by unknown assailants. At the time of his murder, the media reported that “Red Baron” was supposedly the eighth richest man in Europe.Apropos, thousands of other Bulgarians who fell out of Communist favor ended up in 100 internal forced labor camps. For a taste of this period, visit Sofia’s Museum of Soviet Art (7 Lachezar Stanchev St.).
  • Solomon Passy, PhD, was Bulgaria’s foreign minister in the early 2000s. Today, he is president of Bulgaria’s Atlantic Club. Passy campaigns for public access to wifi for the whole European Union, an option he regards as a universal human right and the EU “fifth freedom.”

Many more signs of the once vibrant Jewish community still exist, but it takes experts like Elko Hazan to guide us to them.

Deborah Rubin Fields is an Israel-based features writer. She is also the author of Take a Peek Inside: A Child’s Guide to Radiology Exams, published in English, Hebrew and Arabic.

Some additional facts

  • The Bulgarian equivalent to Israeli-made Bulgarian cheese is “sirene,” a dairy product usually derived from cow’s milk, but may also be made from sheep or goat’s milk. Unlike Israeli-made Bulgarian cheese, it does not have a salty taste.
  • While for many years Bulgaria was an agricultural country, today it is the world’s ninth “most preferred” outsourcing destination in consultancy. Experts, however, contend that Bulgaria must make it easier to hire foreigners, stop a brain drain, attract natives who graduated abroad and improve quality of life. (Financial Times of London)
  • Several years ago, the Bulgarian Ministry of Culture attempted to find funding to refurbish the once beautiful, abandoned Vidin synagogue, but apparently nothing came of these efforts.
  • King Boris III (whose heart is interred at the famous Rila Monastery), the Bulgarian Orthodox Church (including Archbishop Stefan of Sofia and bishops Neofit of Vidin and Kyril of Plovdiv) and several brave Bulgarian parliamentarians (such as Dimitar Peshev) saved the country’s Jewish population from deportation to Nazi death camps. Yet, 11,343 Jews from Serbian Pirot, Greek Thrace and Yugoslavian Macedonia – countries Nazi Germany ceded to the Bulgarian government – were brutally hauled off to Treblinka. (See ushmm.org and yadvashem.org.)
  • For more on Bulgaria during the Holocaust, read “The little country that defied Hitler” by Anna Levy.
  • For more information about Bulgarian Jewish cemeteries, see the 2011 online report of the United States Commission for the Preservation of America’s Heritage Abroad.
Format ImagePosted on September 11, 2015September 9, 2015Author Deborah Rubin FieldsCategories TravelTags Bulgaria, Elko Hazan
Folk music in the Holy Land

Folk music in the Holy Land

The author enjoying a day of folk music from around the world at Israel’s Jacob’s Ladder festival. (photo from Miri Garaway)

I have always been a folk music aficionado, so when I heard about the Jacob’s Ladder Music Festival in Israel, I planned a trip there entirely around the idea of attending the festival. Not only was it a phenomenal event, it exceeded all my expectations and was the highlight of our month’s stay.

photo - Jacob's Ladder Festival sign
(photo from Miri Garaway)

Established in 1976, Jacob’s Ladder (Sulam Ya’akov) is held twice a year, in May and December, with the spring festival on a larger scale. It is billed as “Israel’s friendliest musical and social event, a unique bluegrass, folk, country, blues, Irish and world music extravaganza.” That it was.

With the venue on the grounds of Kibbutz Nof Ginosar on Lake Kinneret, nine kilometres north of Tiberias, the setting could not be more beautiful and the atmosphere is very relaxed, “green” and peaceful. Approximately 4,000 people attend the spring festival, yet it did not feel crowded or overwhelming.

How wonderful to be able to attend a two-and-a-half-day event and know that there is free camping on site, in addition to the pleasant Hotel Nof Ginosar. From the moment we entered the site, on a Thursday afternoon in May 2014, we could feel the energy of the special event that was about to take place.

The organizers have registration down to a science. We bought our tickets upon arrival, received our fluorescent wristbands and joined the throngs of festival goers entering the site. Considering the volume of people arriving, we were amazed that we only had to wait a short time in the line-up for tickets. Pre-festival online tickets helped to ease any congestion.

And, perhaps only in Israel would they provide free agalot, large wheely carts in the parking lot so you can carry all your belongings into the grounds. I found this so civil and convenient and it was fun to watch the hordes of people streaming in with their tents, barbecues, bicycles, chairs, strollers, blankets, duffle bags, food coolers and other camping paraphernalia.

This is a festival that everyone can enjoy: young families, teenagers, baby boomers, aging hippies and young-at-heart seniors. While it originated as more of an anglophone festival, today, many non-anglophone Israelis and tourists attend, too.

The festival is extremely well organized, with activities such as free early morning outdoor yoga and tai chi classes, holistic treatment kiosks, a craft fair, children’s handicraft workshops, a children’s puppet-making workshop, storytelling, juggling, Irish, tap and square dancing workshops. Food booths are also set up on site with pre-purchased tickets to be used throughout the festival.

We chose to stay at the kibbutz guesthouse, Hotel Nof Ginosar. Although the hotel is fully booked for the festival from year to year, the reservations clerk suggested we put our names on the waitlist (this was in October) with a good chance that a room would become available closer to the date of the festival. In the interim, we booked a nearby bed and breakfast to ensure that we had some accommodation in place. We were fortunate that space at the hotel did open up a couple of months before the festival.

It was convenient to stay on site rather than commuting. The hotel is basic, but clean and comfortable and every room has a fridge. The bountiful and delicious Israeli breakfast, included in the room rate, gave us a great start to the day.

While exploring the grounds, I met my Israeli cousin from a nearby moshav, who promptly invited us to his tent for a communal Shabbat dinner. Suddenly, we were among family and friends for a feast. This unexpected rendezvous was indeed a treat.

Jacob’s Ladder is easy to navigate. The main stage is a huge expanse of grass where you can put down blankets, towels or low chairs to reserve a spot for the entire weekend. This is unheard of at most festivals, since you usually have to collect your things at the end of the day and race for the coveted spots each day. It is an unspoken rule at Jacob’s Ladder that if you are not using your space, anyone can sit in your place until you return. The whole area is covered by an enormous see-through tarp, so the sun does not beat directly down on you. Once you are settled in, it is pure joy to sit back, relax and enjoy the outstanding talent and the incredible music. On many occasions, people are moved to get up and dance. You also get to know your neighbors and it feels like a community within a community. It is interesting to make connections with the people who are around you.

There is also the lawn stage, a smaller space with chairs set up on the plaza outside the hotel lobby. Another music venue within the hotel is Hermon Hall, an indoor auditorium, as well as the balcony stage and the sports hall for music and dance workshops.

The performers are often available to meet right after the concert, at a table beside the stage, where they sell their merchandise.

In addition to Israeli artists, musicians come from all over the world to perform at the Jacob’s Ladder. A sampling of some of the stand-outs for 2014 included the Jammin Divas; Maya Johanna, Shay Tochner and Yonatan Miller in a tribute to Pete Seeger; the Slocan Ramblers; and a variety of singers who belted out a moving medley of the songs of Janis Joplin, Joni Mitchell, Eric Clapton and Ray Charles. From the strumming of the Ukeleles for Peace Children’s Orchestra to the lilting sounds of Nava Tehila singing Jewish world music for Kabbalat Shabbat, this was a festival that moved and energized me.

The hotel kindly allows jamming sessions in the lobby and bar areas and people bring guitars, banjos, violins, flutes, clarinets, harmonicas, drums and an assortment of other instruments to showcase their talent. What a wonderful hive of activity and a delight to hear music wafting throughout the hotel. There are also pop-up jamming sessions on the grounds, away from the stages. People-watching is an activity unto itself.

If you want to take a break, there is a swimming pool, as well as the lake beach of the Kinneret, but we came for the music and it was truly an exceptional experience.

Miri Garaway is a freelance travel writer.

Format ImagePosted on March 27, 2015March 26, 2015Author Miri GarawayCategories TravelTags Israel, Jacob's Ladder, Lake Kinneret, music, Nof Ginosar, Sulam Ya’akov
Cuban shul in distress

Cuban shul in distress

Rabbi Yacob Berezniak in Havana’s Agath Israel synagogue. (photo by Baila Lazarus)

On a small side street in Old Havana, an innocuous sign on a decaying wall announces “Synagoga Adath Israel.”

A few steps away, on Picota Street, an entrance leads into the basement of an old building to reveal a modest but well-appointed synagogue that has been serving Cuban Jews for almost 100 years.

Rabbi Yacob Berezniak greets me, though I’ve made no appointment, and talks proudly about the synagogue, but is distressed at the situation with the Jews in Cuba. The community is dwindling, he says, and aging.

photo - Interior of Adath Israel Synagogue in Old Havana
Interior of Adath Israel Synagogue in Old Havana. (photos by Baila Lazarus)

photo - Interior of Adath Israel Synagogue in Old Havana, the arkThe Jewish community in Cuba started growing with an influx from Poland and Russia after the First World War and continued for almost three decades. At its largest, it’s estimated to have been more than 20,000. Not only was it big enough to build and maintain one synagogue, but, as tends to happen in many Jewish communities, it supported a break-away group that moved into a building next door.

After the Cuban revolution, however, changes in the political and economic structure, as well as restrictions on religious observance, caused many Jews to leave – for the United States, Israel and Mexico, among other locations. Today, according to Berezniak, the community numbers only 1,200 in all of Cuba, with 900 being in Havana.

“Most of the members are very old,” he said. “And they’re very poor.”

Poverty in Cuba is a controversial topic. There are those who talk about how the reforms after the revolution provided an ideal lifestyle. Indeed, there are few who would argue that Cuba has had some of the best educational and health reforms in the world. Many foreigners have been coming to Cuba to get health care they may not find in their own countries.

But good health care does not mean that the poorest can afford medications, Berezniak lamented.

There is definitely a two-tiered system in Cuba. Those who are strictly living in the socialist economy have a token stipend that may only amount to a few dollars a month. They receive their money in Cuban pesos (CUP) that are worth about $0.05 Cdn. Their needs are supposed to be met with ration coupons for food and other necessities that often don’t fulfil the requirements of a large family. They live in homes that have been inherited from their parents. If their family grows, they can’t simply move into another location.

Those who have managed to get business licences, especially if serving the tourist industry, have a different story. They are paid in Cuban convertible pesos (CUC) valued at $1 US. A taxi driver can make 50 CUCs for a half-day’s work taking tourists around Havana.

To help the oldest and poorest, Adath Israel offers free meals whenever they can. Every Friday, for example, they have a free fish dinner that fills the synagogue.

“For many of the people who come to that dinner, it’s the biggest meal they will have all week,” said Berezniak, adding that he is also concerned that the Jewish community will simply disappear. “The community has been getting smaller. There are no young people here to support the older ones.”

The poverty and shrinking Jewish population are two reasons why Berezniak welcomes donations – financial and otherwise – to the synagogue. On my visit, a friend and I dropped off bags of clothing, cosmetics and toiletries – items that we take for granted but are very costly in Cuba. Prescription and non-prescription medical supplies are also needed.

With the decision in January by the Obama administration to lift the U.S. embargo of Cuba, it will be easier for certain Americans to travel and bring some supplies in small quantities, but it’s hard to say how long that will take to impact the small country. As well, larger exports are still restricted. Limited products such as telephone, computer and internet technology are now open to trade, and investment in some small businesses is permitted. But general U.S. travel tourism is not open yet. It’s expected that tourist trips will be limited to supervised groups, and there has been no agreement yet about airline flights.

If you are thinking of seeing Cuba, consider going while it’s still building and renovating its infrastructure for tourism. Havana travel agent Ivan Barba said Havana is already almost at its maximum for the number of tourists it can hold; and it will get worse as the U.S. decision opens the door for more.

Food and lodging are still quite affordable, and there are numerous all-inclusive flight and hotel deals direct from Vancouver.

To contact Adath Israel, call 1-537-860-8242 or email [email protected]. Allow a lot of time for email response, however, as internet service is sporadic.

Baila Lazarus is a freelance writer media trainer in Vancouver. Her consulting work be seen at phase2coaching.com.

Format ImagePosted on March 27, 2015March 26, 2015Author Baila LazarusCategories TravelTags Adath Israel, Cuba, Havana, Yacob Berezniak
Brief Kauai vacation tutorial

Brief Kauai vacation tutorial

The path to Nounou Mountain is a gentle incline through a forest of magnificent Norfolk pine trees. (photo by Lauren Kramer)

There were only a few items in my grocery basket so, when the cashier asked me for $100, I insisted on seeing the receipt. There it was, a single loaf of ordinary brown bread – no seeds, nothing fancy – listed at $7.50. There had to be a mistake, I thought, walking the loaf to the returns department of a Kauai K-Mart. But no, I was told. That was the price. A loaf that would cost $1.99 anywhere else in the United States was $7.50 on the island of Kauai.

We’d come as a family to enjoy a week in the December sunshine of the tropical island and learned quickly it would be anything but an inexpensive vacation. Our first shock was when we’d tried to book a furnished house or flat, thinking it would be a perfect way to avoid the cost of eating out every day. We checked the usual sites: vrbo and airbnb, and the listings showed beautiful accommodations, close to the beach and within our budget. So we booked air and went back to the website to secure a place to stay. That’s when we discovered that all those listings were controlled by agencies and, though they appeared “available” online, when you actually tried to book them, you discovered they weren’t. The “hard sell” began the moment I called the agencies. “There’s nothing left on the island,” the agents would say by way of introduction. Then, after a moment’s pause … “All I have left is this apartment at $350 per night.” Pictures of said apartments showed rooms last updated in the 1970s, tiny places that looked entirely unappealing. We learned visitors to Kauai book their accommodation up to a year ahead, sometimes more. And they pay premium prices for their island sunshine.

After many hours scouring online we found accommodation at a modest three-star resort, where we crammed four people into a tiny room and filled the excuse-for-a-refrigerator with snacks, lunch and breakfast foods. Still, the mostly lousy dinners we were forced to eat in restaurants, dining on food that was consistently overpriced, were memorable only for their pitiful quality.

photo - The Napali Coast on the island’s north side is one of Kauai’s great beauties
The Napali Coast on the island’s north side is one of Kauai’s great beauties. (photo by Lauren Kramer)

Kauai Vacation Lesson 1: Book early, ensure you have a kitchen, then visit Costco in Lihue and stock up.

Price sticker-shock aside, we were quickly bowled over by Kauai’s lush beauty. Drive around the island and there are exquisite beaches around every corner, the palm tree-lined stretches of sand you see in brochures, lapped by warm water that makes swimming pure pleasure. We had brought boogie boards and snorkel gear, and spent our days exploring beaches on different parts of the island. In Poipu, which has the island’s busiest beach, we snorkeled over the shallow reefs, while in Port Allen we marveled at a massive monk seal, stretched in languid repose on the shore. In Wailua, the kids surfed for hours, riding small-but-strong waves onto the beach before venturing back for more. In Princeville, we watched a massive turtle swim leisurely, oblivious to the swimmers and snorkelers nearby. With sunscreen and a picnic lunch in hand, the hours spun by beneath the Hawaiian sun, a perfect tonic after the grey, cold winter back home.

photo - Endless stretches of white-sand beaches with tumbling waves means there’s no shortage of space for kids to boogie board or snorkel
Endless stretches of white-sand beaches with tumbling waves means there’s no shortage of space for kids to boogie board or snorkel. (photo by Lauren Kramer)

Kauai Vacation Lesson 2: The beach is all you really need.

“You have to see Waimea Canyon,” folks told us. We had good intentions of visiting the “Grand Canyon of Kauai” but when we started out and learned it would be close to two hours each way, four kids fighting in the back seat, the canyon felt a whole lot less appealing. Instead, we contented ourselves with a hike up Nounou Mountain, through a forest of Norfolk pines with ringed trunks that felt straight out of a fairytale. The hike was exhilarating and muddy, taking us past locals’ back yards, where orange trees hung heavy with ripe fruit. Never has fruit theft felt more appealing – though we kept our hands to ourselves. Later, at one of Kauai’s farmers markets, we had ample opportunity for tasters. We purchased $5 coconuts from a young man who wielded a machete and expertly sliced them so we could drink the sweet milk before devouring the soft interior. And we gratefully accepted samples of colorful rambutan, miniature apple-bananas, massive avocados and Kauai-made chocolate spreads, jams and honey. There’s a farmers market somewhere on the island every day of the week and when you find one, it’s a great opportunity to interact with locals and stock up on fresh local fruit and vegetables. Just don’t even think about bringing them home. Produce export is strictly monitored at the airport and we even witnessed the confiscation of a small container of peeled mango someone had tried to save for the flight.

The only time we opted for a group excursion with a local tourism vendor, we wished afterwards that we hadn’t. The kayak tour we took mentioned a paddle upriver and snorkeling in a secluded cove. What it didn’t mention was that the river was very unremarkable, and that we’d need to commute an hour each way to reach the excursion. The disappointing outing robbed us of a precious day on one of the island’s better beaches and our dinner later that night, at a Hanalei restaurant, represented a new low in our island eating experience.

Kauai Vacation Lesson 3: Rent a car, buy a guidebook and explore on your own.

Lauren Kramer, an award-winning writer and editor, lives in Richmond, B.C. To read her work online, visit laurenkramer.net.

Format ImagePosted on March 27, 2015March 26, 2015Author Lauren KramerCategories TravelTags beach, Kauai, Nounou Mountain, Poipu, Port Allen, Princeville, snorkeling, Wailua
Israel issues travel warnings

Israel issues travel warnings

A view of shore from a dive shop in Dahab, South Sinai, Egypt. (photo by B. Simpson via commons.wikimedia.org)

During the upcoming school holidays of Passover, followed by the summer months, many Israelis travel abroad. Europe is only a few hours away by plane, and the beaches of Cyprus and Greece are even closer. Vacations abroad, even including the flight, are often cheaper than local getaways because of the high price of Israeli hotels. However, the Israeli government has issued travel warnings for 41 countries, including Europe and Asia.

“Recent terrorist attacks by Islamic extremists in Belgium, Canada, Australia, France and Denmark raise concerns over additional attacks against Western targets, including Israeli and Jewish targets, by veterans of the fighting in Syria and Iraq who are affiliated with global jihad (including Islamic State) and by local elements inspired by the terrorist organizations.”

The travel warning, issued by the National Security Council Counter-Terrorism Bureau, noted that is illegal for Israelis to travel to “Syria, Iraq (including Iraqi Kurdistan), Iran, Lebanon, Yemen and Saudi Arabia.”

The warning comes amid a spate of attacks on Western and Jewish targets including the Charlie Hebdo magazine and the Jewish supermarket in Paris, the shooting in Denmark and, just this weekend, an attack on a synagogue in London.

Israeli terrorism experts say Israelis do not seem to be the primary target of these attacks.

“Until now there have been two main targets – governmental targets in Western countries and Jewish institutions,” Reuven Ehrlich, a terrorism expert, explained. “Israelis have not been the target, but I cannot tell you what it will be in the future.”

However, the warnings do not seem to be affecting travel plans. Israelis have one of the highest rates per capita of travel abroad, taking two million trips a year, although there are no statistics about how many of them are travelers who fly several times a year. Israeli travel professionals say they are telling their clients to maintain a lower profile.

“We are asking our passengers to be a little quieter, which is a good thing no matter what,” said Mark Feldman, chief executive officer of Ziontours in Jerusalem. “Israelis tend to be loud and raucous and call attention to themselves. We have several groups going to Europe in the next few weeks and we have told them not to congregate in the lobby, not to speak in loud voices and, if possible, not to speak in Hebrew.”

Read more at themedialine.org.

Format ImagePosted on March 27, 2015March 26, 2015Author Linda Gradstein TMLCategories TravelTags Charlie Hebdo, Israel, Sinai, terrorism
New Jewish journeys

New Jewish journeys

The Jewish Heritage Travel tour to Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia inclues a visit to the historic Trakai Castle, in Trakai, ancient capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. (photo from jhtravel.org)

In August 2015, the Museum of Jewish Heritage: A Living Memorial to the Holocaust will launch a new program devoted to exploring Jewish cultural destinations around the world. From the Baltic states to northern Spain, Cuba and Poland, Jewish Heritage Travel journeys will be unique learning experiences led by experts and accompanied by scholars who will shed light on Jewish life throughout the ages. In addition to private tours and lectures by some of today’s top scholars, many of the trips include opportunities to meet with Jewish community leaders abroad.

“We’re so pleased to be able to team up with Dr. Aryeh Maidenbaum, a world-class expert on educational travel,” said David G. Marwell, director of the Museum of Jewish Heritage.

Maidenbaum earned his doctorate at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem and is a graduate of the Jung Institute of Zurich. He brings with him more than 25 years of experience organizing and leading educational travel programs, including trips focusing on Jewish culture and history and psychology. He will be supported by a dedicated staff and able to draw from the museum’s resources.

The program will launch on Aug. 30 with Jewish Jewels of the Baltic: Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. Highlights of the trip include the city of Vilnius, the countryside of Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia, the ancient capital Trakai, and the city of Riga, followed by Tallin. Prof. Sid Leiman, an expert on Lithuanian Jewry, will accompany the trip, which will run through Sept. 10.

From Oct. 28-Nov. 8, travelers can explore Mysticism, Music and Poetry: The Jews of Northern Spain with accompanying scholar Prof. Ray Scheindlin, an expert on the Jews of Spain. Travelers will visit Barcelona, Girona, Tarazona, Madrid, El Escorial and Toledo, where they will have the opportunity to tour the city’s surviving synagogues.

Travelers will discover A Marriage of Different Cultures when they arrive in Havana, Cuba, on Feb. 9, 2016. Once there, they will be treated to presentations by local scholars and experts, and an overnight excursion to Cienfuegos and Santa Clara. Along with the chance to meet local community leaders, there will be the opportunity to explore Havana and the outlying provinces and experience the flavor of Jewish life in Cuba.

The inaugural travel season will conclude with a look at Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow: The Jews of Poland, which will take place from May 2-12, 2016. Accompanied by Marwell, travelers will begin in Warsaw, where they will tour the new Museum of the History of the Polish Jews and other sites of interest. The next stop will be the old town of Wroclaw (Breslau), followed by a trip through Poland’s countryside and villages including Lodz. Visitors will continue to Krakow, then to Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum and to the recently expanded Auschwitz Jewish Centre, for a private tour with the director.

All trips include deluxe accommodations, land transportation, some meals, and all lectures, presentations, guided tours and site entrance fees. For more information and to register, contact Jewish Heritage Travel at 1-825-256-0197 or [email protected], or visit jhtravel.org.

Posted on March 27, 2015March 26, 2015Author Museum of Jewish HeritageCategories TravelTags Aryeh Maidenbaum, David G. Marwell, Europe, Museum of Jewish Heritage, tours
Red rocks, Jewish lullabies

Red rocks, Jewish lullabies

Today’s Sedona Jewish community is spread out over the surrounding Verde Valley. (photo by Lauren Kramer)

“Whatever you do, please don’t write about vortex or New Age stuff!” I was socializing after Friday night services with congregants at Sedona’s synagogue when one of them, overhearing I was a travel writer, approached me with this earnest request. The “vortex stuff” was nonsense, she added – a real estate ploy that had gotten way out of control. Her warning: avoid the vortex at all costs.

I’d come to this Arizona city of 10,000 to check out the red rocks for which it is famous, and couldn’t resist stopping into shul for services. The synagogue was bustling with locals and visitors as Rabbi Alicia Magen’s melodic voice wafted through the sanctuary, serenading us with Sabbath lullabies as she strummed her guitar. After services, my husband and I joined the congregation for a kiddush, noshing on enchiladas and cheesecake as we chatted with locals. Most were retirees from afar who had settled in Sedona, lured by its combination of rugged good looks and the many amenities and festivals, created to cater to the two million visitors who come each year.

Some of them are only too happy to partake in the “New Age stuff” I’d been warned about, an industry spawned from the notion that vortexes, or spiritual energy points, are clustered around Sedona. Vortex tour brochures touted everything from spiritual growth and self-improvement to yoga and personal guidance at those sites.

But you either believe in that stuff, or you don’t – and, since I don’t, I chose to head out on horseback for a better view of the monolithic red stones that have made Sedona a tourism magnet. And it’s no exaggeration to say this: they truly are magnificent. The first time you glimpse them, as you head towards Sedona on Highway 179, you could easily be forgiven for distracted driving. You round a corner and there they are: striking, massive, dignified and unmistakably fiery red.

Later, on a bumpy pink Jeep tour that takes us closer to the red rocks, I learn that these are not mountains but sand dunes that rise up to 6,592 feet. The rocks get their blazing hue from hematite, a reddish form of iron oxide deposited as water seeped through layers of ancient sandstone millions of years ago. Time has carved spirals, hills and camelback shapes into the sandstone, structures that extend their arms to the sky and create a vivid backdrop that can’t help but startle and amaze. “No matter how long I live here, I never get tired of the view,” one congregant told me.

photo - The author and her husband appreciate Sedona’s red rocks, which are not mountains but sand dunes that rise up to 6,592 feet
The author and her husband appreciate Sedona’s red rocks, which are not mountains but sand dunes that rise up to 6,592 feet. (photo by Lauren Kramer)

The average age is 65-plus at Sedona’s Shabbat service; somewhat puzzled, I inquired if there were any children in the community. There are kids, indeed, I was told, but their families can’t afford to live in the city, where home prices start at $500,000 and climb to $2 million. Instead, they have established homes in the surrounding Verde Valley, in areas like Cottonwood, Camp Verde and Prescott. The Sedona Jewish Centre, whose facilities include the synagogue and a Hebrew after-school program, serves the entire valley.

With our Jeep bumping over rocky terrain in the Coconino National Forest, just minutes from Sedona’s retail strip, our guide pointed out agave plants, prickly pear cactus and Arizona cypress trees. Though it may look dry and arid, red rock country is biologically rich, with a range of different plant communities that support a huge variety of wildlife, from peccary herds to fox and coyote, bears, badgers and roadrunners. For archeologists, the ground below us is a living museum littered with fragments from the past, including pottery shards from the Sinagua people who resided in the area until 1400 AD.

Later, back in Sedona’s uptown cluster of stores, I sampled the fruit of the desert: syrupy sweet prickly pear ice cream and a plate of hot cactus fries, before ambling around the strip. Its stores are a touristy mix of art and pottery galleries and made-in-China souvenirs, interspersed with resort timeshare sales people inside so-called tourist info offices. So I cut short the window-shopping and instead, hit the road to try an adventure treetop experience called Flagstaff Extreme.

I admit, I was scared when I strapped on a harness and climbed ladders into the upper reaches of Ponderosa pine trees. I nearly talked myself out of the experience, and it was only my husband’s coaxing assurances that the obstacles looked scarier than they were, that kept me moving. But after a few minutes of navigating through the forest’s pines using swings, ziplines and bridges, my confidence soared. The wind was blowing through the treetops as I found courage I never knew I had. After completing each of the five levels of adventure, an exhilarating wave of achievement washed over me, propelling me forward.

On my final day in Arizona, we joined Mary McDowall for an ATV tour a half-hour from Sedona in Prescott National Forest. The owner of Arizona Offroad Tours, she took us 25 miles into the hilly Verde Valley, pointing out desert willows, manzanita, hollies and other desert shrubs along the way. “This is one of the most beautiful parts of the state,” she said, gesturing at the million-acre forest around us and the mountain plateaus in the distance. Clambering on the spanking new ATVs we powered up a dirt road, then took a sharp turn from it and zoomed noisily along a meandering, dry creek bed created by the swirling waters of flash floods during monsoon season. It was a striking contrast to the boutiques and gift shops we’d been browsing a day earlier in Sedona.

McDowall agreed. “You go to Sedona, you’re going to see Ferraris,” she said with a shrug. “It’s touristy. But if you’re an outdoor person, this is the place for you, because there’s nature everywhere.”

Lauren Kramer, an award-winning writer and editor, lives in Richmond, B.C. To read her work online, visit laurenkramer.net.

If you go:

  • For Jeep tours, call 1-800-873-3662 or visit pinkjeeptours.com.
  • Horsin’ Around Sedona offers 90-minute trail experiences starting at $98; 1-800-403-1690 or horsinaroundsedona.com.
  • Arizona Offroad Tours offers guided tours in Prescott National Forest starting at $46; 1-928-451-1777 or myarizonaoffroadtour.com.
  • Flagstaff Extreme courses start at $49 for adults and $25 for children; 1-888-259-0125 or flagstaffextreme.com.
  • Stay: The writer was a guest at Sedona Rouge Hotel & Spa; 1-866-312-4111 or sedonarouge.com.
  • General information: 1-800-288-7336; visitarizona.com or visitsedona.com.
Format ImagePosted on January 16, 2015January 14, 2015Author Lauren KramerCategories TravelTags Sedona, travel
Gators, jazz and more

Gators, jazz and more

Honey Island Swamp tours take passengers through a landscape untouched by time. (photo from louisiananorthshore.com)

Our Jeep is stationary and I’m marveling at the scenery when I feel someone nuzzling my back very gently. Turning slowly, I find myself eye to eye with an adult zebra whose broad smile displays a set of large, yellow teeth. His message is clear: “Corn, please, ma’am!”

This being the Global Wildlife Centre in Folsom, La., the zebra isn’t overstepping his boundaries in the slightest. He knows only too well that private Jeep tours like ours are well stocked with one of his favorite treats – dried corn. I fill my plastic cup and pour corn directly into his gaping mouth, watching as my new friend guzzles the food in seconds.

photo - The author’s daughter feeds zebras and a Somali giraffe at the Global Wildlife Centre in Folsom, La.
The author’s daughter feeds zebras and a Somali giraffe at the Global Wildlife Centre in Folsom, La. (photo by Lauren Kramer)

The largest free-roaming wildlife park in the country, the Global Wildlife Centre’s 900 acres are filled with 30 species of very tame herbivores and omnivores from all over the world. There are Somali giraffe, Chinese Father David deer, South American rhea birds, African eland and zebra, Australian kangaroos, Indian black buck and at least 1,000 fallow deer. It’s the latter that all the other animals are eyeing wearily the day of our Jeep tour. “It’s rutting season,” explains our guide, Paul. “This is a time when the fallow deer are mean to each other and to all the other animals, too!”

The animals scamper toward the Jeeps and wagon tours, conditioned to understand that visitor-filled vehicles mean free food handouts. Their proximity allows close encounters, with some animals feeding directly out of our hands and others opening their mouths gratefully as my daughter Sarah and I pour food inside. Trust me, nothing gets a kid off their iPod faster than the extended tongue of an African watusi cow with impressive horns and imploring eyes, or the sweet, kissing sensation of a 16-foot reticulated giraffe willingly scooping food from the palm of your hand. Sarah, 11, turns to me with shining eyes and a huge smile. “This is so cool,” she declares.

We’d crossed the 24-mile causeway from New Orleans to St. Tammany Parish a few days earlier, intent on exploring Louisiana’s North Shore. With Lake Pontchartrain behind us, we quickly learned that the nine communities that comprise the parish offer the warm friendliness of the south coupled with a great selection of outdoor, family friendly attractions – from giraffes to swamp monsters and beady-eyed alligators.

photo - Bike rentals are available at several points along the Tammany Trace hiking and biking trail, which used to be an Illinois Central Railroad corridor
Bike rentals are available at several points along the Tammany Trace hiking and biking trail, which used to be an Illinois Central Railroad corridor. (photo from louisiananorthshore.com)

We started out on the still waters of Cane Bayou in Lacombe, paddling past trees heavy with Spanish moss and turtles sunning lazily on upturned logs. Within minutes, the traffic was far behind us and birdsong filled the air. With Fontainebleu State Park on one side of the bayou and a national wildlife refuge on the other, this is a landscape untouched by time, one as perfect today as it was 150 years ago. I had bare feet drifting overboard the kayak when our guide, Shannon Villemarette, owner of Bayou Adventure, pointed out a statuesque 10-foot alligator a few yards away. “Best to put your feet back in the boat,” she said, reeling in the shrimp bait that was dangling from a fishing line off the end of the kayak. I followed her advice, thinking there seemed little point attracting reptilian attention in a place this remote.

Later that day, though, Captain John was determined to do just that. Our guide on the Honey Island Swamp had attached a white marshmallow to the end of a stick and was dangling it off the end of our boat. Within seconds, we were in the company of an alligator – a small one, but a reptile whose larger relatives surely weren’t far away. “They think these are turtle eggs,” explained the captain of the Pearl River Eco-Tour excursion, who was leading our group of 20. The brochure had tempted us with potential sightings of panther, wild boar, alligators, and perhaps even the elusive swamp monster.

In no time at all, the feral hogs showed up on the embankment, pushing each other out the way to get as close to the boat as they could. It turned out they were avid marshmallow fans, too. “They’re a real problem right now,” says the captain, describing the speed at which the wild pigs reproduce – three times a year from the age of three months.

The two-hour tour takes us deep into the swamp and we putter gently through some of its narrow channels, examining the plant life. Bald cypress trees point their skinny knees out of the water while Spanish moss hangs like thick, ghostly white hair from their branches. The captain pulls closer to the bank to peer at unusually large tracks in the mud. “I have no idea who or what made these prints,” he says, shaking his head. “I’ve also been out here at night and heard sounds I can’t identify. I’m not saying it’s the swamp monster. I’m just saying, I don’t know.”

Lauren Kramer, an award-winning writer and editor, lives in Richmond, B.C. To read her work online, visit laurenkramer.net.

***

If you go:

  • Where to stay: Covington’s new boutique Southern Hotel is an elegant oasis of comfort in a 150-year-old building located in the heart of the city’s historic centre, 1-985-871-5223 or southernhotel.com.
  • Global Wildlife Centre offers wagon tours (kids $11, adults $17) and private Jeep tours at $35 per person, 1-985-796-3535 or globalwildlife.com.
  • Kayak rentals and guided bayou tours are offered at bayouadventure.com in Lacombe, 1-985-882-9208 or bayouadventure.com. For swamp tours, contact Pearl River Eco-tours at 1-985-892-0708 or pearlriverecotours.com.
Format ImagePosted on December 12, 2014December 11, 2014Author Lauren KramerCategories TravelTags Bayou Adventure, Global Wildlife Centre, Louisiana

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