Cuba

Successful trip to Cuba

Cantor Eric Moses led a delegation from his synagogue to Havana, Cuba, this month. (photo from Beth Sholom)

Earlier this month, I traveled to Havana with a delegation from Beth Sholom, the Toronto synagogue where I serve as cantor. Together, we represented the first Canadian Jewish group to visit the island since 2019. Travel to Cuba has been complex and unpredictable for some, but our mission was simple – to support the Jewish community in Cuba and remind them that they are neither forgotten nor alone.

The island nation continues to face an unprecedented and protracted crisis. There is a shortage of nearly everything, most notably fuel. Gas stations, if open at all, have hours-long lineups. Illicit WhatsApp groups gouge desperate consumers for the little gasoline that remains. Electricity is out for 12 to 14 hours each day. Medical supplies are scarce to nonexistent. Surgeries have been canceled, public transportation suspended and schools closed. Along the highways, people stand with wads of Cuban pesos, hoping someone will stop and offer a ride. And yet, despite these hardships, the small but remarkably resilient Jewish community has not lost hope.

On Friday evening, we arrived at Beth Shalom Synagogue, locally known as the Patronato, before Shabbat for a briefing with the community’s vice-president. Moments into her remarks, the lights went out. There was no panic, no drama. She calmly pulled out a few flashlights and continued speaking, as though nothing unusual had happened. She then guided us through the synagogue’s modest pharmacy, where scarce medical supplies are distributed not only to Jewish families but to the broader community as well. We were proud to have brought generously donated supplies from pharmaceutical distributor Kohl & Frisch and members of our congregation – though we knew it would not be enough.

As I entered the sanctuary for services, my contact, William Miller, pulled me aside. “Eric, we have enough generator power for about 20 more minutes.” That meant the Shabbat dinner we had sponsored would likely be served in the dark and with cold food. Again, there was no panic, just another fact of life in today’s Havana. (Our group had helped purchase that very generator during a visit in 2008.)

Our time on the island was filled with meaningful encounters. We visited all three synagogues – Orthodox, Conservative and Sephardi – participated in hands-on volunteer activities and spent time connecting with community members. We toured the Jewish cemetery, the Holocaust memorial and museum, and visited shut-in seniors during a power outage. We visited the Canadian embassy and heard from the ambassador and her team about Cuba’s precarious future. We found brief moments to experience Havana’s incredible charm, including a ride in a classic car, the taste of a mojito and the sounds of Cuban music.

By the end of the trip, our group of 16 left Havana feeling enriched, united and deeply humbled. On Friday night, the entire service was led by the youth at the Patronato – a powerful testament to the community’s commitment. I was honoured to address the congregation and shared a simple reflection: in Canada, we have almost everything, while they have almost nothing; yet they possess something we can learn from, a profound sense of pride, spirit and the determination not merely to survive, but to thrive again. One taxi driver summed up the mood of the country when he told me, “We are in a dark tunnel without a way out.” But we were welcomed with open arms and open hearts.

We departed on Sunday evening on what felt like the last fumes of jet fuel, just hours before Air Canada and WestJet announced the suspension of flights. Those who remain behind do not have the option to leave. They continue to live with constant uncertainty, navigating daily hardships while carrying the weight of more than six decades of a revolution that has failed to deliver on its promises. And yet, the Jews of Havana remain determined, resilient and passionate about their heritage and their future.

Eric Moses is the cantor at Beth Sholom Synagogue in Toronto.

People and places of Cuba

Lorne Greenberg’s solo show, Cuba, comprises photographic compositions, such as this one. (photos by Lorne Greenberg)

The origins of Lorne Greenberg’s solo photography exhibition Cuba can be traced back more than 35 years. “I had my MFA in photography from the University of Arizona in 1983,” he told the Independent. “In 1984, I began photographing Mexican street art.”

At first, he photographed on the American side of the border, but later visited Mexico several times, taking pictures of streets and buildings in many Mexican border towns. “I have an affinity for Latin American art,” he said. “I also read many Latin American writers.”

After a few years, though, Greenberg turned his artistic eye to other interests and new subjects. He only started refocusing on Mexico five years ago.

“In 2014, I began to photograph in Mexico again,” he said. “This time, I was interested in streets, buildings and yards, objects as artifacts of culture. I see it as the archeology of Man, a study of Man in his environment through the observance of objects and artifacts. There is no sky in my Mexican photos, but walls and doors and windows. Colours, shapes and lines, and where things are in relation to each other.”

He wanted to dig deeper in that direction, but, having been in Mexico multiple times, he turned to Cuba. “I had never been to Cuba before. I wanted to see it,” he said. “I heard that [Barack] Obama was going there, and I decided that I’d better go before Americanization.”

In spring 2016, Greenberg flew to Cuba for the first time. “Just me, my camera and my backpack. I came a few days after Obama left. I was there for about 10 days and visited three cities: Havana, Santa Clara and Trinidad.”

He wandered the streets and photographed doors and walls and windows, but with a new mode of expression. “I started seeing people,” he said. “Before, there were hardly any people in my photos. Now, I wanted to photograph them as part of the streetscape.”

He continued his Cuban exploration in 2018, on his second trip to the country. This time, he stayed exclusively in Havana. “When I was there, I ate, slept, photographed and listened to jazz,” he recalled. “It’s a vibrant place, with music a prevalent part of life.”

Again, he roamed the streets, without a plan, photographing houses and people. “Nothing is staged in my photos; nobody posed,” he said. “I just waited until I had a perfect image, and then I took it. I wasn’t trying to make a statement, didn’t have any preconceived idea. I just wanted to find what is there, discover the relationship between people and places, the coherence of individuals and their building backdrops. If some people didn’t want to be photographed, they would say it, and I didn’t take their pictures, but that happened only three times.”

photo - Lorne Greenberg in Italy — Lorne Greenberg in Italy. *(photo by Lorne Greenberg)*

In selecting the images to include in his solo show, from the hundreds he took in Cuba, he said, “I didn’t want to show just 10 or 15 large pictures. A single large image has a privileged status, and I wanted to create an experience of Cuba, to show people what I saw.”

Therefore, he compiled his photographs into compositions, which made it possible to increase the number of different images on display. Each composition is more than a collection of individual photos – it is a work of art on its own.

“There are 102 different pictures in the show, combined into eight compositions,” Greenberg said. “At first, I considered each composition as a tic-tac-toe grid, but it didn’t work. It was too orderly, too tight, didn’t give the sense of Cuba. Then I thought about the sculptures of Alexander Calder. I changed the layout of my compositions, opened them up, created a flow. They are not individual photographs anymore. They are installations, and they incorporate the gallery space as part of the experience. Each composition has a certain colour scheme, and its lines and shapes create a whole, simultaneously dynamic and static, random and structured.”

The arrangement of the compositions was as creative an endeavour as was taking photographs. “It was fun moving pictures around, seeing different possibilities. I could have done it for much longer, if I didn’t have a deadline for the show,” he joked.

Greenberg’s Cuban compositions reflect the political reality of the country. The lively colours of the buildings preen under the heat and light of the sun, while simultaneously exposing the peeling paint, dirty or moldy walls, and the rusty metal of fences and shutters, which hint at the poverty that exists in the country.

“I see beauty, aesthetics and humanity,” said Greenberg. “Poverty is more in the ethical dimension, and everything for me is in the aesthetic world.”

The show Cuba opened on Oct. 24 at the Zack Gallery and continues until Nov. 24. The opening reception was held on Oct 30. For more information on Greenberg’s work, visit lornegreenbergphotography.ca.

Olga Livshin is a Vancouver freelance writer. She can be reached at [email protected].

טרודו וקסטרו

מנהיגה לשעבר של קובה, פידל קסטרו, שנפטר ב-25 בנובמבר. (צילום: Antônio Milena/ABr via Wikimedia Commons)

ג’סטין טרודו מאבד גובה: תמיכתו בפידל קסטרו גרמה לראש ממשלת קנדה לראשונה לחטוף מכל עבר

ראש ממשלת קנדה מטעם המפלגה הליברלית, ג’סטין טרודו, חטף לראשונה ביקורת קשה מאוד מבית ומחוץ, לאור תמיכתו הנלהבת במנהיגה לשעבר של קובה, פידל קסטרו, שנפטר ב-25 בנובמבר. רבים ממנהיגי העולם המערבי בהם ארה”ב וכמובן מנהיגי האופוזיציה (מהמפלגה הקונסרבטיבית) לממשלת טרודו בקנדה, ביקרו אותו קשות לאור הדבריו שאמר לזכרו של קסטרו. המועמד לנשיאות בארה”ב מטעם המפלגה הרפובליקנית, מרקו רוביו (שהפסיד לדונלד טראמפ), הגדיל לעשות כשאמר: “האם הצהרה זו אמיתית או פרודיה? כי אם זה אמיתי זה מביש”. ואילו פרשן יחסי החוץ של הוול סטריט ג’ורנל, ברט סטיבנס, העיר: “הודעה מחפירה של ג’סטין טרודו. לא ג’סטין, פידל לא ‘שירת’ את העם הקובני. הוא הפך את העם למשרתיו במשך 60 שנה”.

המנהיג הקובני היה ידידו של אביו פייר אליוט טרודו, שהיה המנהיג המערבי הראשון שביקר אותו באי ב-1976, מאז משבר הטילים עם ארה”ב והאמברגו האמריקני. קסטרו לא שכח וב-2000 הגיע להלוויית טרודו במונטריאול. טרודו הבן מיהר לצאת בהצהרה כתובה לאחר שנודע שקסטרו נפטר. בה אמר בין היתר: “פידל קסטרו היה מנהיג גדול מהחיים, ששירת במשך כמעט חצי מאה. היה מהפכן ונואם אגדי, שהביא לשיפור עצום במערכת החינוך וכן מתנגדיו הכירו בהתמסרותו ובאהבתו האדירה לעם הקובני, שרחש חיבה עמוקה ומתמשכת למנהיג”.

האמנם טרודו? מומחה לנושאי קובה וקסטרו, הסופר ובמאי הסרטים, ירון אביטוב, שחי בעבר בקובה, כתב בימים האחרונים רשימה על קסטרו שפורסמה בעיתון מעריב. בין היתר כתב אביטוב: “קסטרו היה אחד העריצים האכזריים ביותר בתולדות המאה ה-20 ונחשב לאכזר ומרושע. הוא רדף את מתנגדיו ורבים הושלכו לכלא ונמקו שם, בעיקר סופרים ועיתונאים. לאורך השנים מאות אלפים גלו מקובה, או ניסו לברוח ממנה למיאמי ברפסודות רעועות, וחלקם נטרפו על ידי כרישים. את הבשורה המהפכנית, שהייתה אמורה לשמש מודל וחיקוי במאבק נגד האימפריאליזם, השחיתות והסיאוב, המיר קסטרו ברודנות מושחתת ומסואבת, שרק מרקסיסטים עיוורים עוד דוגלים בה. במהלך כהונתו העשיר קסטרו את קופתו הפרטית על חשבון העם שהסתפק בנזיד עדשים, עד שזכה להיכלל ברשימת מאה עשירי העולם של המגזין פורבס. קסטרו הפך את קובה לאחת המדינות העניות המרודות בעולם. מדינה שרוב תושביה משתכרים סכומים שלא היו מספיקים לרכישת פלאפל ברחוב דיזינגוף. רוב תושבי קובה מתחננים בפני תיירים שירכשו עבורם תרופות שאין להשיגן, לא מעט מבנותיה מציעות את מרכולתן בשוק הבשר האכזרי, מדינה שסובלת מהפסקות חשמל ומים תכופות, מרבית אוכלוסייתה ניזונה מפנקסי קיצוב וכל אדם שפותח את הפה עלול להיות מושלך למאסר ממושך, ואף גרוע מכך”.

החשש מדונלד טראמפ: ארכיון האינטרנט האמריקני יצור עותקי גיבוי בקנדה

לאור החשש ממדיניותו הבעייתית והמסוכנת של הנשיא הנבחר של ארה”ב מטעם המפלגה הרפובליקנית, דונלד טראמפ, ארכיון האינטרנט האמריקני החליט ליצור עותקי גיבוי לעת חרום בקנדה. בהנהלת הארכיון הדיגיטלי חוששים כי טראמפ מסוגל להפעיל צנזורה קשה שתפגע בחופש הפעולה שלהם, ולכן הוחלט ליצור ‘אתר ראי’ שלא במפתיע ימוקם בשרתים הקנדיים שמעבר לגבול. עלות יצירת עותקי הגיבוי בקנדה תעלה מיליוני דולרים והארכיון מחפש עתה מקורות מימון ותרומות, להפעלת הפרוייקט המסובך.

הארכיון הדיגיטלי האמריקני (שהוא ארגון שלא למטרות רווח) פועל מזה כעשרים שנה, ומאחסן כל העת עמודי רשת. יצויין כי מדי שבוע הארכיון גדל בכשלוש מאות מיליון עמודי רשת חדשים, שכוללים ספרים, סרטונים, תוכנות, מוסיקה ועוד.

Cuban shul in distress

Rabbi Yacob Berezniak in Havana’s Agath Israel synagogue. (photo by Baila Lazarus)

On a small side street in Old Havana, an innocuous sign on a decaying wall announces “Synagoga Adath Israel.”

A few steps away, on Picota Street, an entrance leads into the basement of an old building to reveal a modest but well-appointed synagogue that has been serving Cuban Jews for almost 100 years.

Rabbi Yacob Berezniak greets me, though I’ve made no appointment, and talks proudly about the synagogue, but is distressed at the situation with the Jews in Cuba. The community is dwindling, he says, and aging.

photo - Interior of Adath Israel Synagogue in Old Havana — Interior of Adath Israel Synagogue in Old Havana. *(photos by Baila Lazarus)*

The Jewish community in Cuba started growing with an influx from Poland and Russia after the First World War and continued for almost three decades. At its largest, it’s estimated to have been more than 20,000. Not only was it big enough to build and maintain one synagogue, but, as tends to happen in many Jewish communities, it supported a break-away group that moved into a building next door.

After the Cuban revolution, however, changes in the political and economic structure, as well as restrictions on religious observance, caused many Jews to leave – for the United States, Israel and Mexico, among other locations. Today, according to Berezniak, the community numbers only 1,200 in all of Cuba, with 900 being in Havana.

“Most of the members are very old,” he said. “And they’re very poor.”

Poverty in Cuba is a controversial topic. There are those who talk about how the reforms after the revolution provided an ideal lifestyle. Indeed, there are few who would argue that Cuba has had some of the best educational and health reforms in the world. Many foreigners have been coming to Cuba to get health care they may not find in their own countries.

But good health care does not mean that the poorest can afford medications, Berezniak lamented.

There is definitely a two-tiered system in Cuba. Those who are strictly living in the socialist economy have a token stipend that may only amount to a few dollars a month. They receive their money in Cuban pesos (CUP) that are worth about $0.05 Cdn. Their needs are supposed to be met with ration coupons for food and other necessities that often don’t fulfil the requirements of a large family. They live in homes that have been inherited from their parents. If their family grows, they can’t simply move into another location.

Those who have managed to get business licences, especially if serving the tourist industry, have a different story. They are paid in Cuban convertible pesos (CUC) valued at $1 US. A taxi driver can make 50 CUCs for a half-day’s work taking tourists around Havana.

To help the oldest and poorest, Adath Israel offers free meals whenever they can. Every Friday, for example, they have a free fish dinner that fills the synagogue.

“For many of the people who come to that dinner, it’s the biggest meal they will have all week,” said Berezniak, adding that he is also concerned that the Jewish community will simply disappear. “The community has been getting smaller. There are no young people here to support the older ones.”

The poverty and shrinking Jewish population are two reasons why Berezniak welcomes donations – financial and otherwise – to the synagogue. On my visit, a friend and I dropped off bags of clothing, cosmetics and toiletries – items that we take for granted but are very costly in Cuba. Prescription and non-prescription medical supplies are also needed.

With the decision in January by the Obama administration to lift the U.S. embargo of Cuba, it will be easier for certain Americans to travel and bring some supplies in small quantities, but it’s hard to say how long that will take to impact the small country. As well, larger exports are still restricted. Limited products such as telephone, computer and internet technology are now open to trade, and investment in some small businesses is permitted. But general U.S. travel tourism is not open yet. It’s expected that tourist trips will be limited to supervised groups, and there has been no agreement yet about airline flights.

If you are thinking of seeing Cuba, consider going while it’s still building and renovating its infrastructure for tourism. Havana travel agent Ivan Barba said Havana is already almost at its maximum for the number of tourists it can hold; and it will get worse as the U.S. decision opens the door for more.

Food and lodging are still quite affordable, and there are numerous all-inclusive flight and hotel deals direct from Vancouver.

To contact Adath Israel, call 1-537-860-8242 or email [email protected]. Allow a lot of time for email response, however, as internet service is sporadic.

Baila Lazarus is a freelance writer media trainer in Vancouver. Her consulting work be seen at phase2coaching.com.

Jewish Cuba mission

Michael and Phyllis Moscovich in Cuba. (photo from Jewish Federation of Greater Vancouver)

When community lay leaders Michael and Phyllis Moscovich were planning their most recent mission trip, they never imagined discovering Jewish ties to former Cuban president Fidel Castro, and the vibrant community that exists on the island.

Michael, a committed volunteer with Jewish Federation and a board member for several years, is currently a member of Federation’s Israel and overseas affairs committee, as well as its Partnership2Gether committee. He and Phyllis also jointly chair the Ethiopian students internship program. The couple’s shared passion for travel and interest in Jewry across the Diaspora has motivated them to participate in nine previous Federation missions. Last October, they participated in their first American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee (JDC) mission to Havana, with a group of like-minded community members from North Carolina.

“I wanted to see Cuba before the regime changed and am always interested in Jewish communities elsewhere,” explained Michael.

JDC missions provide participants with a highly personal perspective on daily life for Jews and others in more than 70 countries in which JDC operates.

Cuban Jews have lived on the island for centuries, some tracing their ancestry as far back as the late 15th century to “anusim” who fled the Spanish Inquisition. In a February 2007 story, the New York Times estimated that there were about 1,500 identified Jews living in Cuba, most of them (about 1,100) living in Havana. The article added, “This small Jewish presence [in 2007] is in stark contrast to the bustling community that existed before Fidel Castro came to power in 1959. In those days, there were 15,000 Jews and five synagogues in Havana alone.”

JDC’s re-entry into Cuba in 1991 has sparked a Jewish resurgence on the island and a growing awareness of the community and its rich history. As it does elsewhere across the globe, JDC, in partnership with the local community, provides assistance to Cuba’s Jews, develops Jewish leaders and has prompted a revitalization of Jewish life. Working with JDC, the community has established a Jewish summer camp, adult education, an Israeli dance festival and communal holiday celebrations.

The mission visited all the operating synagogues in Havana, the Jewish cemetery and all the major tourist sites. “We met several times with members of the community, highlighted for us by a lunch with an unassuming fellow who spoke little English,” shared Michael. “By the end of lunch, we had determined he had been Fidel’s personal bodyguard for over a decade.”

One of the more surprising revelations of the trip for Michael and Phyllis is that there never seems to have been overt antisemitism in Cuba. “Fidel never even knew our guy was Jewish, until he attended a Chanukah celebration at one of the synagogues where one of the members mentioned that his bodyguard was a synagogue member,” Michael remarked. Also noteworthy is the fact that the young people are allowed to make aliyah, when almost no one else is allowed exit visas.

The opportunity to immerse themselves in the community was enlightening. “My expectations were all met. Seeing Havana, [getting a taste of] the regime, getting a sense of what 45 years of communism can do to an otherwise colorful and vibrant country,” said Michael. More remarkable from his perspective was “seeing the Jewish community and how it is sustaining itself.”

Michael and Phyllis took away with them enduring memories of the tenacity of the Jewish community and the vibrancy of the entire population, despite the hardships the regime has brought on its people. “It was great to travel with similarly committed Jews, to see the great work JDC has done, to meet our brethren, to see again what communism does and doesn’t do, to see it crumbling however slowly,” Michael explained. “The experience re-confirmed my personal commitment to the community, here and overseas.”

Federation invites you to participate in a mission trip to Vienna, Budapest and Israel, with mission chairs Anita and Arnold Silber, from Oct. 11-22, 2015. Visit the Israel and Overseas Experiences page on Federation’s website (jewishvancouver.com) for more information about opportunities to visit Israel and experience Jewish life in communities around the world. You can also donate to this year’s campaign via the website.

– This article was originally published in eYachad, and is reprinted with permission.