If relaxing is your cup of tea

As a bat mitzvah present, my parents took me and my brother to Europe for a month. My father is a European, always looking for an authentic experience, so when not staying with relatives or friends, we stayed in bed and breakfasts. These establishments were usually homes of unkempt older women who needed an income, but had done little to their homes since their children moved out. They cooked runny eggs and cold toast topped off with mystery meat. I became vegetarian soon after that trip.

When I moved to Vancouver from Saskatoon, I was surprised that B & Bs were popular for getaways to the Gulf islands. I wondered why anyone would pass up a clean Super 8 motel in favor of a B & B. Curiosity made me take the first trip to stay in a B & B near Sooke on Vancouver Island, but it is the charm and delight that I find in each place that I stay that keeps me wanting to experience others. I have tasted granola and yogurt as a starter for my four-course breakfast on Maine Island, eaten eggs Florentine ocean-side on Pender, had apple pancakes on the top of a mountain and, most recently, enjoyed hot fruit crisp to whet my morning appetite on Saltspring.

The food alone doesn't do it for me; talking to locals is a huge part of vacation for me. B & B owners are happy to answer questions in ways that no concierge could do. I've talked politics and heard local dirt that make trips much more interesting.

My last trip was to Saltspring Island, staying at the Beddis House bed and breakfast. The island is alive with hundreds of artists, hiking trails from relaxing to hard core, and views that are best from a bicycle. Explore any way you choose. My husband and I decided to take our bikes over on our car. I was glad that my idea of taking only our bikes was vetoed by my husband. Unless you are Lance Armstrong and into bike camping, a car is vital on the mountainous gulf islands.
The islands were formed by volcanic activity so staying by the ocean requires a long ascent to get anywhere, and the distances seem twice as far when you have to climb for 25 minutes on your bike. But it's nice to take a leisurely ride.

Start at the junction of Robinson and Upper Ganges Road. Head north and stay on the road as it undulates to the water's edge and reveals views of Galiano and the Pacific Ocean. The road loops past grazing sheep, many studios and Vesuvius harbor, one of the three ways off the island. The last bit is through forest and is fairly flat. It took us a few hours with a stop for lunch and some studios I couldn't resist.

The day ended with the quintessential B & B holiday experience. Sufficiently tired, we returned at 4:30 to find freshly baked muffins and cookies to go with our choice of 15 herbal teas, coffee or hot chocolate. We took our tea into the beautiful garden and snacked and sipped in the afternoon sun. The next morning, at 8, a quiet knock on the door signalled the arrival of a pot of tea, which I enjoyed on the balcony overlooking the ocean and a deer grazing on the lawn. Breakfast was a feast of poached fruit followed by wild salmon, mini soufflés, fresh bread with jam from the raspberry bushes outside and more tea. Each day at that B & B served up ocean views, gardens, hiking, riding and tea.

For more information on bed and breakfasts in B.C., visit www.wcbbia.com.

Michelle Dodek is a Vancouver freelance writer.