|
|
October 23, 2009
A thriving community to explore
Paris' Jewish Quarter is rich with art, architecture, history, fashion and kosher cuisine.
EVA COHEN
Paris is indeed a city of romance, but it also has a vibrant Jewish past and present.
France's Jewish population is approximately 600,000 and is the third largest Jewish population in the world, after Israel and the United States. Communities in the country reside predominantly in Marseille, Strasbourg, Lyon, Toulouse and of course, Paris.
The Jews of France have a long-established history that hasn't always been so kind. Particularly hostile eras include the Medieval Inquisition, the Great Exile of 1306, the Expulsion of 1394 and the Second World War. Today French Jews experience anti-Semitism in relation to events in the Middle East and from the large Muslim immigrant population whose relationship with the Jewish community has more recently become increasingly disquieting. However, the current government, under President Nicolas Sarkozy, has been much more sympathetic toward the Jewish population than previous administrations. Significantly, this year, the Council of State, France's highest court, issued a ruling to recognize the state's responsibility in the deportation of approximately 76,000 Jews from France during the Second World War – about a quarter of the country's Jewish population at the time.
Jewish travelers today can feel quite safe visiting France. However, the recommendations made recently by Israel for Israelis not to wear any outwardly Jewish clothing or symbols while traveling can apply to Jews of the Diaspora as well. It never hurts to be extra careful when visiting foreign places.
Paris is the most popular tourist destination in the world, and there are myriad ways to experience the sights and sounds of the city. There is ample choice for what to do and see and where to stay. Student travelers, families, professionals and others can choose from a multitude of places, ranging from the famous but pricey Ritz Hotel, to student hostels, at a cheap 20 Euros (approximately $30 Canadian) per night. As well, there are also several hotels in and around the Jewish Quarter, which is located in the famous Marais district.
The centre of the Jewish Quarter is called the Pletzel (Yiddish for "little place") and dates from the 13th century. Although the Jews of France experienced discriminatory legislation throughout the ages, portions of the community always managed to find ways to protect and preserve the community and the quarter has maintained a steady Jewish presence over the centuries.
The changing face of Paris has seen the Marais become quite fashionable in recent decades, but the trendiness exists alongside the heavy and persistent Jewish influence. Signposts and walls throughout the Marais host flyers for Jewish events and the area has several Judaica shops and a variety of kosher restaurants and fast food.
The main thoroughfare is rue des Rosiers and continues on the surrounding streets, including rue Mahler and rue des Hospitalières-St.-Gervais. Within the area, there are several three-star and above hotels that have received kosher certification from the beit din (religious court) of Paris. Travelers are advised to request kosher food at the time of booking.
Although Paris has become relatively secular in recent years, the city, like the rest of Europe, almost entirely closes down on Sundays. However, an interesting place to visit on a Sunday is Marais' famous rue des Francs-Bourgeois; due to the predominately Jewish residents, visitors and shopkeepers, it is one of the only streets in the city (and in the country) that is completely open on Sundays. The street is very chic with several fashion boutiques that are great for shopping or even just window-shopping. As well, rue des Francs-Bourgeois has several famous buildings, including Carnavalet Museum, which houses the museum of the history of Paris.
Within Marais, as well as other smaller Jewish pockets around the city, there are numerous synagogues that range from large congregations to small storefronts that host daily minyanim. Most of the services are held in the Sephardi custom, but a few Ashkenazi services can also be found.
Marais' rue Pavée is home to the largest synagogue in the Pletzel and a visit to the building is highly suggested as part of a walking tour, if not for actual services. Another famous synagogue is Agudath Hakehilot, an Orthodox synagogue built in 1914 that was designed by Hector Guimard, the well-known Art Nouveau architect and decorator. He is most famous for his work on Paris' metro stations. The synagogue was dynamited by the Nazis on Yom Kippur, in 1940, but has since been restored. In addition to playing a key role within the Jewish community, it has been designated a French national monument.
Paris is a fantastic city with a magnificent landscape in all seasons. The City of Light promises a memorable visit and a chance to explore and enjoy an ancient, yet vibrant, Jewish community. And, there's always the Eiffel Tower.
Eva Cohen is a Canadian freelance writer.
^TOP
|
|
