Kosher wines for Purim

CHAIM HAMMERED SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH BULLETIN

As regular readers of the Bulletin and other heavy drinkers are aware, kosher wine has improved vastly in recent years. No longer just a syrupy substitute for treif wines, kosher wines from Israel and elsewhere have become competitive with some of the finest vintages available today.

Here at home, Canada has a number of new bottles to offer, especially from British Columbia's own Okanagan Valley.

One of the finest reds to emerge from this province recently is Chateau de Penticton Cabernet, which is made from first-crush Cabernet Sauvignon grapes fermented and aged in oak. This wine is the Okanagan incarnated in a bottle, with its hints of peaches, suntan cream and sagebrush.

But for a kosher Cabernet, nothing can match the exquisite French label 2003 Chateau Non-a-la-guerre. In addition to hints of croissant and foie gras, it contrasts delightfully with some American vintages, which are more aggressive and less nuanced. Though a substantial order had been placed by the United States to supply its military with the Cabernet as an accompaniment to canned meats, the order was reversed and it now appears the Cabernet will be staying home.

Along with an increase in Germany's Jewish population since the collapse of the Berlin Wall has come a resurgence in kosher wine-making. The 1999 late-harvest Riesling offers sweet but balanced suggestions of knackwurst (the kosher kind), mashed potatoes and Black Forest cake.

Further east, entrepreneurs in the new Russia have entered the kosher wine craft with relish. Unlike Chardonnays from elsewhere, which are white, the Russian version is a deep ruby red, thanks to the imaginative introduction of beets. In addition to the earthy tones brought on by these scarlet tubers, the Glasnostya Chardonnay of Siberia (which has not previously been identified as a noted wine region), is redolent of potato, boiled cabbage and may even hint at subtle vodka undertones. Best gulped in enormous quantities, it is truly a Purim wine, though it is known to be a year-round favorite in organized crime circles.

Chianti is generally associated with Italy, and its warm, velvety, slightly tannic texture is a fine accompaniment for rich Jewish variations on Italian classics, such as the stand-by spaghetti with ketchup sauce. Originally introduced to the Israelites by Roman conquerors, Chianti fell from favor among Diaspora Jews, but has recently regained its standing as connoisseurs have identified in its Mediterranean distinctiveness a surprisingly garlicky bouquet and artichoke aromas.

For a flavor that harks to kosher wines of the past but are less harmful to diabetics, Chateau de Chintz Bubbe's Burgundy offers a balance of sweetness and moderation. Ideal for people who believe that wine, like everything else on the table, should be served at room temperature, Bubbe's Burgundy comes in a crocheted reusable bag and the bottle converts to a vase afterward. Gentle on aged palates, this Napa label is best served with fatty chicken, vegetables in heavy sauces and latkes. (Save room for dessert!)

For older aficionados who prefer white wines, Mission Zayde Sauternes are a small-harvest, exceptionally mild autumn grape product that makes a perfect pre-nap afternoon-cap. Centuries of wine-making have made Mission Zayde set in its ways, routinely inflexible, but inexplicably charming. It is best at room temperature, but can be enjoyed chilled if one is wearing a sweater.

Ideal for intermarried simchahs is the half-and-half Cabernet/Shiraz offered in Reform-minded wine cellars only. At once passionate and subdued, strong yet mellow, the Moscovitch-O'Connor Cab/Shiraz is ideal for both circumcisions and christenings. Sure to please everyone or no one, the Moscovitch-O'Connor wine-making tradition is overseen by rabbinic supervision before the wine undergoes trans-substantiation.

Our final selection is de Boer's kosher South African blush. Once known for strict separation of its somewhat bitter reds and exceptionally rich white vintages, de Boer's in recent years has abandoned this tradition and mixed all its vintages together in single vats for what has proved to be a much more balanced, less offensive blend. Many of South Africa's dry whites are still available, having been exported to Canada, Europe and elsewhere over the past 10 years.

While shopping for Purim supplies, don't forget the endless variety of distinctive new kosher choices, available wherever low- to mid-quality wines are sold.

Chaim Hammered is a frequent contributor to debauched parties around the world.

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