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December 11, 2009

Add a Mediterranean flavor

Four healthy and colorful recipes for a festive Chanukah meal.
EFRAT TABI

Chanukah is my favorite holiday; it's so colorful and cheerful. The candles always seem like they are dancing and the game of dreidel is so fun to play.

On Chanukah we celebrate the great triumph that we had over the Syrian-Greeks but, even more than that, the miracle that happened in the Beit HaMikdash (the Temple) – one small jug of oil that miraculously lasted for eight days. This little jug of oil is not just one of the symbols of Chanukah, it is the idea of the whole menu for the holiday!

I call it the "frying holiday." We fry the jelly doughnuts and, of course, the latkes (levivot in Hebrew). In almost every house in

Israel that you enter during Chanukah you can smell the holiday. This is the spirit of Chanukah – the joy of frying!

Traditional latkes, as we all know, are made out of potatoes. Originally, it was an eastern European recipe. It could also be sweet. Over the years, creative cooks invented more versions: vegetable latkes (zucchini, carrot, onion cauliflower), cheese latkes, fruit latkes, corn latkes, the list goes on.

If you don't wish to fry the latkes you can bake them in the oven at 400-420 degrees Fahrenheit (depending on your oven) for 10 minutes on each side.

I would like to suggest a Mediterranean version of a Chanukah meal: potato latkes with onions and cilantro and spinach latkes with herbs and feta cheese. To this, I would add a side dish of tomato salad with orange and basil, and a yogurt sauce for dipping.

POTATO LATKES
Makes 16 latkes
These potato latkes are from boiled potatoes. There is a version where you grate uncooked potatoes and fry them. I found that sometimes the latkes come out uncooked or they tend to burn. I prefer to boil the potatoes, mash them and add some seasoning. When you fry the latkes this way, they are crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. 

I use baking potatoes. They have a wonderful flavor and after you boil them they become really soft and it is easy to peel off the skin. It is best if the potatoes are cooked one day ahead of time and left in the fridge to dry out. Potatoes absorb a lot of water during the boiling process. This is why they need to sit in the refrigerator for one day to dry out, otherwise the latkes will fall apart when frying.

2 baking potatoes
1 medium onion, cut into strips
4 tbsp. oil (to sauté the onions)
1 egg
1 tsp. salt (or to taste)
1 tsp. black pepper (or to taste)
1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro
1/2 cup oil (to fry the latkes)

Remember to cook the potatoes a day before you make the latkes. Wash the potatoes (don't peel off the skin) and cook them in the microwave until tender. It will save you a lot of time when you will boil them. While the potatoes are in the microwave, put the water up to boil.

Put the cooked potatoes in the boiling water and boil them until they become really soft. Peel off the skin and put the potatoes in the refrigerator over night.

Sauté the onion in a sauce pan until golden. (You can do it also a day before and keep it in the refrigerator. It will save you time the next day.)

Place the potatoes in a deep bowl and mash them. The potatoes will have hardened after the night in the refrigerator. Start with breaking the potatoes into pieces and then mash them. It should be a smooth mixture, but if you have some small chunks, don't worry, you just need to get an easy mixture to work with in order to form the latkes.

Add the fried onion, chopped cilantro, salt and pepper to taste. Beat in the egg and mix all the ingredients together thoroughly.

Heat the oil in a frying pan, then scoop a full tablespoon from the mixture and form it into a flat patty. If the mixture is sticky you can fill a small bowl with water and dip your hands in it before forming each latke. Just make sure not to sprinkle water into the oil.

Fry the latkes on medium-high heat for three minutes, then flip them to the other side and fry again until golden-brown. (Be careful not to burn them!)

Place the latkes on a plate covered with a paper towel to absorb the oil. Serve hot or at room temperature.

SPINACH LATKES
Makes 14 latkes
I love spinach. I can eat it fresh or cooked. Here is a version of spinach latkes. These spinach latkes are full of herbs and onions. With some feta cheese and pine nuts you will get a great combination of flavors.

2 packages of frozen spinach (600g)
1 medium onion cut into strips
4 tbsp. oil (to fry the onion)
4 thick green onions stalks, finely chopped
1/3 cup parsley, finely chopped
1/3 cup dill, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2/3 cup feta cheese
1 tsp. pine nuts (optional)
3 tbsp. bread crumbs
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1 1/2 tsp. black pepper
2 eggs
1/2 cup oil (to fry the latkes)

Thaw the spinach in the microwave, transfer to a sieve; press to remove moisture. It is very important to squeeze out the water completely, otherwise the latkes will fall apart while you fry them. If you choose to work with fresh spinach you would need to cook the spinach in a large pot until wilted; about three minutes. Transfer to a sieve; press to remove moisture.

Sauté the onion in a pan until golden. Put the spinach in a deep bowl, add fried onion, green onion, dill, garlic, feta, pine nuts, bread crumbs, salt and black pepper. Mix thoroughly. Add more salt/pepper if desired. Add the eggs and beat them into the mixture.

In a frying pan, heat the oil on medium-high heat; scoop full tablespoons from the mixture and form flat patties. Fry the latkes for two to three minutes, then turn them and fry again for another two to three minutes. Be careful not to burn them. They should turn golden-brown on both sides.

Place the latkes on a plate covered with a paper towel to absorb the oil. Serve hot or at room temperature.

TOMATO SALAD WITH ORANGE AND BASIL
Makes three servings

3 tomatoes
1 orange, diced
1 garlic clove, chopped
1/4 cup red onion, sliced
Basil, approximately 20 leaves
3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

Slice the tomatoes. Add the diced orange, onions and garlic. Squeeze the lemon, add the olive oil, salt, black pepper and toss. Top with basil leaves.

If you prepare the salad ahead of the meal, season it just before you serve it.

YOGURT DIP
Makes three servings

1 cup organic yogurt
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 green onion, finely chopped or one tbsp. chopped dill
Salt and black pepper to taste

Put the yogurt into a bowl; add garlic, olive oil, salt and black pepper. Mix. Sprinkle the green onion or the dill on top.

Extra tips:

1. Some people don't like the smell of frying. We can't avoid it, but we can reduce it. First of all, turn on the fan above the stove, open a window (I know it is cold outside, but let some fresh air come inside and some of the frying smell will go out).

2. Close the doors to the other rooms of the house – at least you won't have your other rooms smelling like latkes. Wash the frying pan and clean the stove thoroughly immediately after you finish frying.

3. Anytime you have potatoes left over from a meal, you can make some baked or fried latkes out of them.

4. You can make the latkes a day before, keep them in the fridge and 10-15 minutes before serving, take them out from the fridge. I like to eat them at room temperature, but you can warm them up in the oven for five to 10 minutes if you prefer them hot.

5. You can always freeze the latkes and warm them again in the microwave or let them thaw in the fridge overnight.

6. Latkes can make a great sandwich. Add slices of cucumber, or green/red pepper, sprinkle some salt and black pepper and you will have a great lunch.

Happy Chanukah to all of you and thank you for letting me share my passion for cooking with you!

Efrat Tabi is the owner, with her husband Albert, of the Donair Place and Coffee Shop, 42375 Yarrow Central Rd., in Chilliwack. The phone number is 1-604-823-0111.

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