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May 18, 2007

Breakfast in Yaletown

Eateries are serving more than just good looks.
RYAN NADEL

Whether it's a bagel on the way to work or waffles on the weekend, there is something special about going out for breakfast – a certain luxury to making the time in the morning to dine out.

In Vancouver, there are few neighborhoods better suited to luxury and enjoyment than Yaletown. It's home to some of the trendiest spots in the city and, whether your penchant is for a Jewish-style deli or French-style café, Yaletown is your place.

A unique spot to fill the urge for a fresh bagel oozing with cream cheese (choose from plain, lox, dill, roasted garlic or sundried tomato) or hot rugelah straight from the oven is Phat (Pretty Hot and Tasty), at 1055 Mainland St. This Yaletown deli is where yuppie meets bubbe; the eatery carries a full breakfast menu served all day. Prices range from $6.50 for scrambled eggs on a bagel to $9 for a smoked salmon and cream cheese benny, or, for the less halachically minded, a shrimp benny. All baked goods are made on location.

Phat's owner, William Kaminski, takes a trademark stance behind the counter, relaying the feeling of the tough guy deli owner with a warm Jewish heart. Originally from Toronto, his passion for both food and hockey are clear. The walls of the deli are decorated with hockey memorabilia and he talks emphatically about his bagels and lattes. However, the brightly colored décor and techno music remind patrons that they are in Yaletown, not in 1950s Montreal.

Phat is the place to go for a casual breakfast and to get a subtle dose of traditional Jewish atmosphere. For a different flavor, in both food and atmosphere, walk down the street a bit to Browns Restaurant Bar at 1165 Mainland. Browns meets the expectation of what a classic Yaletown restaurant should be: dark walls, a flashy bar and a heated patio. Booths line the interior walls, creating privacy for each table. Oversized family portraits of the owner's family line the far wall, creating a dichotomy between family-oriented restaurant and trendy hot spot.

This establishment serves up a creative breakfast menu. The menu, only available on weekends, does not try to hide the demographic to which it appeals. Hannah's Hang-over Burger, an all beef patty with a fried egg on top, is just what the doctor ordered after a Saturday night out in the Yaletown bars. And the cinnamon raisin French toast with fresh baked raisin bread and brandied bananas speaks to the heart of many brunch-goers. The wagamama breakfast bowl, udon noodles in Asian broth with chicken wontons, also stands out from the average breakfast menu.

Prices range from $8 for the French toast to $11 for the burger. Breakfast is served from 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. on weekends. If the weather is good, expect a wait for the patio.

Those seeking a more classic breakfast experience should look no further than Provence Marinaside, 1177 Marinaside Cres. This upscale restaurant sits on the edge of Yaletown, overlooking False Creek. It is urban living at its height. The warm ambience and relaxed atmosphere are ideal for breakfast on a slow morning.

The highlight of the breakfast menu at Provence is the Belgian waffles. They are topped with sautéed raspberries and fresh whipped cream. Another highlight is the French toasted baguette with maple syrup and whipped cream. The menu also offers a full selection of omelettes and eggs benedict in various forms. All egg dishes are served with potatoes and fresh fruit. Provence receives its baked goods fresh from a local bakery, while muffins and biscotti are made in house.

Prices range from $8 for the seasonal fruit salad and yogurt to $22 for the crab and lobster omelette. There is also an extensive brunch menu offered on weekends, divided into different categories, including sweet, eggs and savory. A unique feature that Provence offers is the ability to have all items on the menu to go.

And, although the interior is tasteful and not overcrowded, if one can negotiate a seat on the patio on a sunny day, breakfast could easily turn into lunch as you watch the boats and people go by.

Ryan Nadel is a Vancouver freelance writer.

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