|
|
March 14, 2003
Kosher wines for Purim
CHAIM HAMMERED SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH BULLETIN
As regular readers of the Bulletin and other heavy drinkers
are aware, kosher wine has improved vastly in recent years. No longer
just a syrupy substitute for treif wines, kosher wines from Israel
and elsewhere have become competitive with some of the finest vintages
available today.
Here at home, Canada has a number of new bottles to offer, especially
from British Columbia's own Okanagan Valley.
One of the finest reds to emerge from this province recently is
Chateau de Penticton Cabernet, which is made from first-crush Cabernet
Sauvignon grapes fermented and aged in oak. This wine is the Okanagan
incarnated in a bottle, with its hints of peaches, suntan cream
and sagebrush.
But for a kosher Cabernet, nothing can match the exquisite French
label 2003 Chateau Non-a-la-guerre. In addition to hints of croissant
and foie gras, it contrasts delightfully with some American vintages,
which are more aggressive and less nuanced. Though a substantial
order had been placed by the United States to supply its military
with the Cabernet as an accompaniment to canned meats, the order
was reversed and it now appears the Cabernet will be staying home.
Along with an increase in Germany's Jewish population since the
collapse of the Berlin Wall has come a resurgence in kosher wine-making.
The 1999 late-harvest Riesling offers sweet but balanced suggestions
of knackwurst (the kosher kind), mashed potatoes and Black Forest
cake.
Further east, entrepreneurs in the new Russia have entered the kosher
wine craft with relish. Unlike Chardonnays from elsewhere, which
are white, the Russian version is a deep ruby red, thanks to the
imaginative introduction of beets. In addition to the earthy tones
brought on by these scarlet tubers, the Glasnostya Chardonnay of
Siberia (which has not previously been identified as a noted wine
region), is redolent of potato, boiled cabbage and may even hint
at subtle vodka undertones. Best gulped in enormous quantities,
it is truly a Purim wine, though it is known to be a year-round
favorite in organized crime circles.
Chianti is generally associated with Italy, and its warm, velvety,
slightly tannic texture is a fine accompaniment for rich Jewish
variations on Italian classics, such as the stand-by spaghetti with
ketchup sauce. Originally introduced to the Israelites by Roman
conquerors, Chianti fell from favor among Diaspora Jews, but has
recently regained its standing as connoisseurs have identified in
its Mediterranean distinctiveness a surprisingly garlicky bouquet
and artichoke aromas.
For a flavor that harks to kosher wines of the past but are less
harmful to diabetics, Chateau de Chintz Bubbe's Burgundy offers
a balance of sweetness and moderation. Ideal for people who believe
that wine, like everything else on the table, should be served at
room temperature, Bubbe's Burgundy comes in a crocheted reusable
bag and the bottle converts to a vase afterward. Gentle on aged
palates, this Napa label is best served with fatty chicken, vegetables
in heavy sauces and latkes. (Save room for dessert!)
For older aficionados who prefer white wines, Mission Zayde Sauternes
are a small-harvest, exceptionally mild autumn grape product that
makes a perfect pre-nap afternoon-cap. Centuries of wine-making
have made Mission Zayde set in its ways, routinely inflexible, but
inexplicably charming. It is best at room temperature, but can be
enjoyed chilled if one is wearing a sweater.
Ideal for intermarried simchahs is the half-and-half Cabernet/Shiraz
offered in Reform-minded wine cellars only. At once passionate and
subdued, strong yet mellow, the Moscovitch-O'Connor Cab/Shiraz is
ideal for both circumcisions and christenings. Sure to please everyone
or no one, the Moscovitch-O'Connor wine-making tradition is overseen
by rabbinic supervision before the wine undergoes trans-substantiation.
Our final selection is de Boer's kosher South African blush. Once
known for strict separation of its somewhat bitter reds and exceptionally
rich white vintages, de Boer's in recent years has abandoned this
tradition and mixed all its vintages together in single vats for
what has proved to be a much more balanced, less offensive blend.
Many of South Africa's dry whites are still available, having been
exported to Canada, Europe and elsewhere over the past 10 years.
While shopping for Purim supplies, don't forget the endless variety
of distinctive new kosher choices, available wherever low- to mid-quality
wines are sold.
Chaim Hammered is a frequent contributor to debauched
parties around the world.
^TOP
|
|