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July 29, 2011

An Israel trip the family will remember

DAN LEVITT

Memories with your kids growing up are priceless. Most of us can remember vacations with our parents, whether it was to the Okanagan, Disneyland, a cousin’s bar mitzvah in Calgary or a trip to Hawaii. We never forget those experiences and they form an imprint on our future outlook of the world outside our local community.

Taking a vacation to a country in the Middle East may seem like a dream, until you begin to plan and consider the costs involved. Steep airfares take your breath away when you consider the cost of flying your family to Israel compared to a destination like Hawaii; and then there is the matter of accommodations. However, seeing your children pray at the Western Wall is worth every penny. A clear goal of a family vacation to Israel is for your children to form a connection with the people and land of Israel.

Flying routes are important and going with a carrier that uses Europe as a hub is a smart idea. Flying with KLM or British Airlines will reduce your travel time and, with an overnight stay, help reduce jet lag in younger travelers. Going through Amsterdam allowed us to see Anne Frank’s house, the Van Gogh Museum and the Portuguese Synagogue.

When we arrived in Israel, we focused our first week on the main tourist sites in the region around Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. In Jerusalem’s Old City, the crowds can be overwhelming, as you walk through the narrow, winding streets on the way to pray at the Western Wall. And, if it happens to be a holiday, like Passover, the crowds are gridlocked. This is one of the busiest times for Christians as well, with thousands of pilgrims making their way to Via Dolorosa towards the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Leaving the throngs in the main entrance to the church, we weaved our way to the Western Wall, where a sea of black-clad men and women were praying in advance of Shabbat.

After Shabbat, our route took us to Ein Gedi, Masada and the Dead Sea – each place warrants its own article. However, our sights were set on traveling south to the Arava Rift Valley.

At the north end of the Red Sea sits Eilat. A sun worshipper’s outpost with luxurious hotels hugging the beachscape, the scene might remind you of a Mexican resort city like Cabo San Lucas. Eilat boasts hotels that rival any top resorts in the world and, certainly, this location has secured the European market for those seeking a beach vacation. Eilat is also an ideal spot to make the treks to Jordan, to visit Petra and Egypt’s Sinai peninsula.

Our accommodation took us a little off the beaten path. There are three Arava Valley kibbutzim, Lotan, Yahel and Ketura, and we chose to stay on Lotan. The kibbutz, founded largely by North Americans, is known for ecological stewardship and inventive recycling projects. Our guide was Michael Livni, a former Vancouver resident, who toured us through sand dunes, a migratory bird-watching station and the ecology park, which is made of recycled materials and includes geodesic-domed buildings. With the backdrop setting of a desert landscape, the ecology park looks like the fictional Tatooine home of Luke Skywalker in Star Wars. The kibbutz offers desert touring and ecology programs, a blanket of stars at night, simple accommodations and delicious meals in the main dining hall. It is a small paradise, and provides a chance for visitors to experience the vision and idealism at the heart of the kibbutz movement.

Halfway between Lotan and Eilat is Timna Park. The 23-square-mile national park is a worthwhile stop. The landscape is breathtaking – the clean air of the desert, the hot sun and the quiet of the preserve are sure to make a lasting impression. As you drive through, you can further explore the stunning landscapes, enlivened with multicolored rock formations. The area was an important a source of copper for fifth-century BCE Egyptian miners – the site is dotted with ancient mine shafts – but it also includes a wonderland of geological phenomena. The most intriguing are the Natural Arch, the eroded monolith known as the Mushroom and the photogenic Solomon’s Pillars. There is also a range of excellent day hikes through one of Israel’s wildest deserts. You can get information on hiking trails from the staff at the main gate or at the visitor centre. The development of Timna Valley National Park has become a major project of the Jewish National Fund.

After a half day of hiking through the desert of Timna Park, it was time to relax at the beach. Coral Beach Reserve is a great family spot to soak in some rays and try snorkeling in the Red Sea. The coral reef is perfect for an afternoon of rest and relaxation after a week of jam-packed family-oriented stops. For my kids, who attend Jewish day school and had just finished a curriculum focusing on the Exodus and Passover, the Red Sea holds special sway. Our five-year-old daughter, who has a spirited imagination, picked up a large stick she found at the base of a tree. She proceeded to walk to the edge of the beach and, standing with her feet in the Red Sea, she raised both arms in the air, recreating the memorable scene where Moses parts the waters. While the sea did not part, her efforts certainly warranted some delicious chocolate milk made in nearby Kibbutz Yotvata.

Dan Levitt is the father of two young world travelers to Israel.

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