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April 6, 2012
A pilgrimage to Jerusalem
Four Questions to ask before traveling Israel during Passover.
ANNA LEVINE
Come, enjoy and explore. Discover favorite haunts as you wander the streets of Jerusalem, uncovering the many neighborhoods and flavors of the city. These four questions will help you find your way.
1. Why is this holiday different from all other holidays?
Passover is the holiday in which we celebrate freedom. In biblical times, it was freedom from slavery. Today, we take time off and celebrate freedom from work. Freedom from our daily routines. Freedom from being inside all winter. Lucky for travelers to Israel, Israelis celebrate the story of the Exodus by traveling to other countries, thus freeing up the holiday sites for visitors from abroad.
Passover is one of the three biblical holidays when Jews are encouraged to make a pilgrimage to Jerusalem and, today, there is much to do in this beautiful, bustling city, even during the holiday. There are many good websites that can lead you through the maze of Jerusalem streets on your way to see the sights, but here are a few “off-the-beaten-path” ideas of what to see, what to eat, how to get away from it all and where to relax.
The Old City in Jerusalem should be a first stop for a biblical experience in modern times. Take a short step outside the walls to the City of David, where you can explore inside Hezekiah’s Tunnel (cityofdavid.org.il/en). This tunnel, filled with running water (bring a change of shoes) is an adventure into living history.
After, if you’re looking for a place to “chill out” this month, Jerusalem is hosting a Jerusalem Ice Festival in the Old Train Station, with performances, storytelling and ice skating. For a list of the latest events around town, visit jerusalem.muni.il and click on the English tab in the top left corner.
2. Why on this holiday do we eat unleavened bread?
Or rather: What is there to eat during Passover in Israel?
Eating out can be a challenge. Many restaurants prefer to close rather than make their kitchens kosher. Some places get creative and you’ll find rolls that look like bread rolls and feel like bread rolls – but are made from potato starch – and matzah-based pizza is an experience not to be missed. Make sure to carry snacks with you, however, as some restaurants and cafés do stay closed for the duration of the holiday.
The website gojerusalem.com (type the words “freedom through food” into the search function) has published a list of restaurants that are kosher for Passover this year.
Mahane Yehuda, the Jerusalem market, is known simply as the shuk. Don’t be daunted by Agrippas Street, which looks like a one lane road but acts as a super highway to accordion buses, taxis and shoppers with over-loaded food strollers. Once you turn off onto the main street, you enter into a different world, where vendors sell fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds and an incredible variety of olives and pickled foods. If you’re looking for a taste of Israel, this is the place. The vendors are loud, gregarious and especially friendly to tourists. If you are offered a slice of watermelon al ha sakin, off the knife, don’t be shy – at the market, you taste before you buy.
3. Why do we eat herbs?
Or rather: Where can you find a place in nature outside of the city’s hustle and bustle?
A few kilometres from Jerusalem is a quaint moshav, Beit Zayit. At the centre of the moshav is a dinosaur park where you can step inside the fossil footsteps of dinosaurs that once walked the land. It’s a picturesque place to visit with biking and hiking trails in the area, and there is a lovely café restaurant called Derech HaGefen (Vineyard Way) where you can stop for a cool drink. Hebrew speakers can visit cafeitamar.co.il for information. For information in English, visit allaboutjerusalem.com/restaurant/derech-hagefen or visit gojerusalem.com (type Beit Zayit into the search field) for a description of the area.
Another favorite spot, this time for writing, exercising trails or just for a coffee, is Sataf, with its inspiring views. Sataf is about 10 kilometres from Jerusalem, off the Mevessert Zion exit. It has an eight-kilometre trail full of walkers, joggers and bikers at all hours of the day. This is the place where people from the area congregate (including known politicians and other familiar faces) that will leave you wondering, “Don’t I know that person from somewhere?” A cool dip in the springs, both Ein Bechora and Ein Sataf, just below the seventh kilometre, is an experience that will bring you back for more. At the end of the eight-kilometre trail is Café Sataf, where you can linger for hours. Don’t forget to come over and say “Hi” – I’m the one typing on her laptap!
4. Why do we recline?
Or rather: Where’s a good place to kick back and relax in the evening?
He’s not Woody Allen but, for a Jewish comedian, David Kilimnick’s comedy club has a unique Jerusalem twist: it’s “clean” comedy and it’s in English. Off the Wall Comedy Empire is in the centre of Jerusalem (israelcomedy.com).
Another favorite is Lev Smadar, a theatre situated in the German Colony that has that old feel of what a theatre used to be. They show an interesting mix of independent and mainstream flicks (02-5660954). The Jerusalem Cinémathèque is another favorite. Situated opposite the Old City with breathtaking sights, it also offers a wide range of movies and has a café with a porch and a view that is a must.
Anna Levine was born and raised in Canada and has been living in Israel for more than 20 years. She sets her stories in Israel, bringing a glimpse of Israeli culture to a Western readership. Her latest book for young readers is Jodie’s Passover Adventure (Kar-Ben Books, 2012), which is set in Hezekiah’s Tunnel in the City of David. Her website is annalevine.org.
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