Siena is a jewel of Tuscany

CURT LEVIANT AND ERIKA PFEIFER LEVIANT

Siena, a jewel in the crown of Tuscany, is an old walled city, set in the midst of rolling hills and captivating Italian landscapes.

Within the walls, Siena is famed for its cathedral, the huge oval arena (or public square) known as the Campo, surrounded by old buildings and the artworks that attract thousands of visitors every year. Another popular event is the Palio, a horse race held in the Campo, in which 10 districts of Siena compete on July 2 and Aug. 16.

Siena is also home to a beautiful 400-year-old synagogue that is the pride of the small Jewish community.

Outside of Siena’s walls flows a different world; lush land filled with gorgeous vineyards, hills and valleys gleaming with shades of green and chartreuse and yellow fields.

We were fortunate to find a hotel, the Santa Caterina, just outside of the walled city but within walking distance of the historic centre. The welcoming atmosphere created by the friendly manager and her staff will long be remembered. With its large and lush tree-shaded garden, where the splendid breakfast buffet was served and which has an enviable sweeping view of miles of countryside, the Hotel Santa Caterina has the best of Siena.

If you go, be sure to request the Santa Caterina apartment suite, which is in a separate building, with its own private entrance, two bedrooms, each with a private bath, and a huge living room/dining room from which one has a view of a wide swath of picturesque Tuscany. From here, too, you can easily stroll along country paths that lead to the tended fields.

We were fortunate to have as our guide the knowledgeable Vittoria Adami, who took us to the city hall and the former hospital, now an art-filled museum, both buildings that abut the Campo. We walked the perimeter of the huge arena, which was being prepared for the Palio a week later. Bleacher seats were set up in various sections of the Campo between the front of the buildings and the empty space of the arena. We had seen photos of the Palio, where thousands of people stand in the Campo and watch the horses run on the track, specially sanded for the race, where on other days of the year people promenade.

“All this,” wryly commented one Sienese, “for a 47-second race.... That’s all it takes for these 10 well-trained horses to make the circuit. So, in less than a minute, it’s all over.” The jockeys ride bareback and it is not unusual for one or more of the jockeys to be thrown off during the sharp turns and for a horse to finish the race riderless.

Our guide then walked with us to the old synagogue on Vicolo della Scotto, just a few minutes from the Campo – and a pleasant 15-minute walk from the Hotel Santa Caterina – traversing local neighborhoods that tourists rarely see.

Unlike the grand mid-19th century Florence synagogue, with its imposing and elegant exterior, the Siena synagogue has no memorable façade. In this respect, it resembles the old synagogues of Venice, plain on the outside, elaborately decorative and ornate on the inside, typical of shuls built in Italy before the Emancipation. A beautiful aron kodesh, a handsome carved bimah, Venetian chandeliers and a hand-carved Elijah’s chair used for a brit are the highlights of this attractive synagogue.

Jews have lived in Siena for nearly 700 years and were involved in banking early on. In 1571, the Jews were confined in a separate neighborhood near where the synagogue currently stands; this ghetto period lasted until 1859.

Since it was summer when we were there, there were no Sabbath services, for most of the Sienese Jews were on vacation; but the small community – its last rabbi died several years ago – gets together once a month on a Friday night for services and a communal Shabbat dinner.

After we left the synagogue, Mrs. Adami stopped in a shady spot and shared with us a personal, drama-laden story.

As long as the Italians were in control of Italy during the Second World War, Jews were relatively safe, she explained. It was only after Italy surrendered late in l943 and the Germans occupied Italy that the Italian Jews, previously subjected to the fascist laws but not doomed, were rounded up and deported to the German death camps.

One night, after the Germans took control of Siena, the head of the Jewish community received a phone call from the chief of police, who said the Germans had ordered him to have his officers enter every Jewish home the next day and arrest everyone. Spread the word and go into hiding immediately, the chief told the Jewish community leader, who then contacted every Sienese Jewish family. Most called upon Christian friends and immediately found refuge, but a minority, claiming that their families had resided in Siena for centuries, asserted that nothing would happen to them. Alas, it was these families who were arrested and deported.

Then, our guide told us that her mother and grandparents hid a Jewish family that consisted of three generations. The Jews were told to stay indoors, not to venture out even to the balcony, she shared. But, one young man, oppressed by the summer heat, disobeyed and went out to the balcony. After the war, a man told Mrs. Adami’s grandmother that he had been standing guard on a rooftop with a rifle, had seen the young man, and realized that he was a Jew being sheltered by the Adami family. It was a dangerous, foolhardy move on that young Jew’s part, for the soldier could have reported the incident and both families would have suffered. But, the former soldier said, he kept silent.

For that wonderful story alone, which illustrates the well-known humanity and decency of very many Italians, even under fascist rule, it was worth traveling to Siena. The heroism of the Adami family and that of the Siena police chief must also be remembered.

In general, Siena is a lovely place to stroll and people watch. The Sienese love their city and walk through it with seeming joy. Old people, youngsters and young couples with baby carriages amble along the curving lanes morning, noon and night. And have no fear about getting lost – almost all streets lead to the Campo and the Sienese willingly will help you find your destination.

We got to Siena in a roundabout fashion, taking advantage of a wonderful deal with the all-business class airline, OpenSkies, which flies from Newark to Paris. In the French capital, we spent some time at the fabulous Le Meurice, one of the world’s première hotels, after which we took the swift TGV to Biarritz. A few glorious days at the renowned ocean-side hostelry, the palatial Hotel du Palais, relaxed us prior to our journey to Italy.

Within Europe, the rails are the most scenic, relaxing and economical way to travel. Moving from one city to another in the modern, comfortable Rail Europe trains, we found that our Eurail Pass (it can only be bought in the United States and Canada) was a convenient and money-saving card. For purchase, discounted fares and information, visit raileurope.com or call 1-888-382-7245.

Curt Leviant’s most recent novel is the comic A Novel of Klass. Erika Pfeifer Leviant’s articles on travel and art appear in various publications. Photographer Leora Chefitz is a senior at Goucher College, majoring in psychology and art.

^TOP