Los Angeles' Jewish connections

ARTHUR WOLAK

Famous for its warm, sunny weather, densely packed freeways and the landmark hilltop Hollywood sign, Los Angeles is one of the most populated cities in the United States. Ever since California achieved statehood in 1850, Jews have come to the West Coast in large numbers.

Today, there are about a million Jews residing throughout California, with the largest Jewish community settled in Los Angeles County. In fact, based on total population, Los Angeles is among the biggest Jewish cities in the world. Within the United States, it ranks second only after New York. Dotted with intriguing Jewish sites that are well worth the time to explore, Los Angeles is so spread out that tourists have to search long and hard to find them. However, once these gems are discovered, no L.A. visitor will be disappointed.

Proof of Los Angeles' substantial Jewish population is provided by the city's educational institutions. Besides dozens of Jewish day schools, the city boasts rabbinical schools for nearly every contemporary denomination. The Hebrew Union College-Jewish Institute of Religion trains Reform rabbis and cantors, while the American Jewish University (formerly known as the University of Judaism) educates Conservative rabbis. Orthodox yeshivot, such as Chabad's Yeshivah Ohr Elchonon, are also found in Los Angeles.

Unlike their European ancestors, the city's Jewish population has been fortunate to be able to work in every conceivable industry. But, in the world's movie capital, the Jewish contribution has been particularly noteworthy in the film industry. Indeed, the original foundation of Hollywood depended on the important contributions of primarily eastern European Jewish immigrants. In his book An Empire of Their Own: How the Jews Invented Hollywood, Neal Gabler argues that Hollywood's founding Jewish moguls, studio executives and producers transformed their early Jewish experiences in oppressive prewar Europe into escapist entertainment that helped define early American film. Whatever degree of truth this argument may hold, their influence was as significant as it is undeniable.

Many key Jewish motion-picture-studio founders helped make Hollywood a filmmaking centre of global importance: Adolph Zukor and Jesse Lasky (Paramount Studios); Carl Laemmle (Universal Studios); Harry, Albert, Sam and Jack Warner (Warner Brothers); Louis B. Mayer and Samuel Goldwyn (MGM); Jack and Harry Cohn (Columbia Pictures); William Fox (Fox Film Corp.) and Joseph Schenck, William Goetz and others (Twentieth Century Pictures), later merging into 20th Century Fox; and David O. Selznick (Selznick International Pictures), whose father, Lewis J. Selznick, was among the earliest pioneers of the American motion picture business.

Several of these studios, like Paramount and Universal, still exist and can be visited by interested tourists. Evidence of their founders' achievements, as well as those of numerous other significant Jewish talents in the entertainment field, can be found in DVD rental shops throughout the world. However, in Los Angeles, they can also be found in the stars along the Hollywood Walk of Fame, at one of the city's top tourist attractions – Hollywood Boulevard.

Unlike Jerusalem, Montreal or New York, distinctive Jewish neighborhoods in Los Angeles are less obvious, since most of the area's Jewish population has shifted to the San Fernando Valley in the north of L.A. County. Yet, there are still unique pockets of Jewish interest closer to the centre of the city. The most historic is the "Bagel District," as the area along Fairfax Avenue is affectionately known. Although less vibrant now compared to decades past, the Fairfax neighborhood – once the epicentre of the Jewish community, situated north of Wilshire Boulevard and east of Beverly Hills – is where many kosher (and non-kosher) delis, butchers, bakers, Judaica stores and synagogues can still be found. Established in 1924, Canter's Deli (at 419 North Fairfax Ave.), famous for its mile-high sandwiches, remains an area landmark frequented by locals, tourists and celebrities.

The city's contemporary Jewish population reflects Jewish communities from all parts of the world. Today, a major portion of the Jewish population resides in the San Fernando Valley, where communities like Northridge, Encino and Tarzana are lined with Jewish shops and restaurants, both kosher and uncertified "kosher-style." Of the latter, Art's Delicatessen in Studio City (at 12224 Ventura Blvd.) attracts many locals and out-of-towners. Similar to Canter's Deli on Fairfax, Art's Deli has been a valley landmark since 1957. Its large clientele keeps returning to this local mainstay where the proud owners boast that, "Every sandwich is a work of art." Given the deli's name, who can argue?

Before reaching the valley, an area of substantial Jewish presence can be found in West Los Angeles, along Pico Boulevard. Newer Jewish restaurants and bakeries thrive there. West Pico is lined with food establishments like Nathan's, Pico Kosher Deli and even Subway for Glatt-Kosher sandwiches, accompanied by several kosher ethnic restaurants, such as Chick 'N' Chow (kosher Chinese) and Sushiko (kosher Japanese), near the Glatt-Kosher Elat Burger and Kabob. There are also many kosher dairy restaurants, including Circa and Bibi's Warmstone Bakery Café.

The street is also home to the Simon Wiesenthal Centre and its Museum of Tolerance (9786 West Pico Blvd.). This important educational institution has informed millions of visitors about the Holocaust and the continuous global dangers of anti-Semitism and ethnic hatred. It was established in 1977 by founder and dean Rabbi Marvin Hier, who is a two-time Oscar-winning producer, for the Holocaust documentaries Genocide and The Long Way Home. As head of the Wiesenthal Centre's Moriah Films, he continues to help write and produce films to educate the general public about the horrors of the Holocaust. Although named by Newsweek as the "most influential rabbi in America" (2007 and 2008), Hier is known to many Vancouver residents for the years he served as rabbi during the 1960s and 1970s of Vancouver's oldest and largest Orthodox synagogue, Schara Tzedeck, before moving to Los Angeles to head the Wiesenthal Centre.

Another important educational institution focused on Jewish heritage and culture is located in the nearby Santa Monica Hills. The Skirball Cultural Centre (2701 North Sepulveda Blvd.), situated in a 1996 structure designed by Israeli-Canadian-American architect Moshe Safdie (famous for, among other buildings, his design of downtown Vancouver's Library Square), is a unique resource. Skirball features changing exhibitions, as well as a variety of Jewish musical, theatrical, comedic, literary and cultural programs for the benefit of the half million visitors who visit the centre each year.

A major attraction at the Skirball museum is the permanent exhibit Visions and Values: Jewish Life from Antiquity to America, which shares with visitors of all backgrounds the Jewish values, history and accomplishments of the past four millennia. Many children's programs – especially the new interactive exhibit inspired by the story of Noah's Ark – complement the adult educational offerings. There is also Zeidler's Café and Audrey's Museum Store with a broad selection of Jewish books for sale.

With a map and list of places to visit, travellers to Los Angeles have a lot of options for a memorable experience.

Arthur Wolak is a freelance writer in Vancouver.

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